Norway – Streaming thru America

Cruising for a Bruising

April 4, 2020April 4, 2020Posted in Adventure, Architecture, Food, health, landscape, Photography, travel, wanderlustTagged coronavirus, COVID-19, cruise ships, Donald Trump, Norway, social distance, Viking Ocean Cruises, Viking Star9 Comments

When Leah and I embarked on our Norwegian adventure aboard the Viking Star,

we were unaware that COVID-19 was invading the decks of Diamond Princess while she cruised from Hong Kong to Japan–inevitably turning her into a floating Petri dish of suffering for its 3711 passengers and crew.

There was no mention of Diamond Princess peril during our maritime emergency drill–but an advisory letter was delivered to our stateroom that evening.

When the general alarm sounded, all 450 crew members reported to their assigned muster stations,

while 920 passengers assembled inside the Star Theater to learn how to prepare for an emergency evacuation.

After instruction, the crew went about their business, and passengers scattered throughout the ship to enjoy themselves, unconcerned with what was brewing in Asia. Afterall, this was our home to share for the next two weeks.

The Viking Star never felt too crowded or too busy. The spacious Living Room had plenty of comfortable seating for small talk and table games.

As a whole, people took their time getting from point A to point B. Many strolled with canes–others with walkers. It made Leah and I feel so much younger than the seventy-somethings attracted to Viking’s vision of casual luxury.

During the course of our cruise, we always gravitated to the 3-deck Atrium at mid-ship,

where people gathered for conversation and daily music performances. While more than 20 different nationalities were represented onboard, nearly half the ship was American, with large blocks of Brits, Aussies, and Brazilians filling out the count.

When it came to dining, we had a variety of options that came with a couple of rules. The dinner dress code required shoes for all and collared shirts for men. Additionally, use of sanitizer stations or hand sinks at all dining room entrances and exits was expected before seating.

We enjoyed sampling the fish and meats at The Restaurant, located aft on deck 2. It is the Viking Star’s largest menu-driven dining room,

delivering breakfast, lunch and dinner.

But for intimate dining, we found Manfredi’s–directly below on deck 1–to be as good a classic Italian eatery as any on sea or land, and without a surcharge to boot. Naturally, early dinner reservations were coveted and prioritized by cabin category, but late-evening seatings became an acceptable compromise for us.

Next door was Chef’s Table, a small dining room that focused on delivering five fixed courses prepared from locally-sourced ingredients, and paired with selected wines. The course selection changed every few days to showcase a different world cuisine, and was included without surcharge, but by reservation-only.

The World Cafe, located aft on deck 7 was Viking Star’s buffet option, and most popular breakfast venue for a wide range of appetites.

However, Leah and I have always been wary of buffet lines, which are commonly compromised by passengers who inevitably return for second and third helpings. They unwittingly grab the serving tongs without considering that they may have licked their fingers earlier. Eww!

Bringing our personal hand sanizer to the table always provided a thin veil of protection.

An inspection of The Spa on deck 1 seemed appropriate after so many good meals. We discovered the weight gym,

and the machine room.

and an amazing thermal suite, with a salt water hydrotherapy pool, sauna and snow room.

Of course, climate-controlled swimming was available–if we were so inclined–at the Main Pool on deck 7, under a retractable roof.

For lounging and relaxation, we could contemplate the panoramic views of the 2-tiered Explorers’ Lounge, forward on decks 7 and 8;

or the Torshavn Lounge,

a nightclub venue for dancing and light entertainment.

However, to get away from it all, Leah and I felt very comfortable social distancing inside 5006–

our Scandinavian-styled veranda stateroom with a king-size bed, a smart TV, and a well-stocked bar refrigerator.

Our cabin was outfitted with a generous-sized bathroom…

that featured an amazing shower.

Thanks to Eric, our room attendant and all the other housekeepers, the ship always sparkled–

especially after two ship inspections during our voyage. It was reassuring to see crew members scrubbing and polishing so thoroughly.

On February 14th, our final evening, Leah and I enjoyed dinner at Chef’s Table to celebrate Valentine’s Day, and a return to live TV reception, now that we were floating south of the Arctic Circle.

While savoring our tenderloin stir-fry, we reminisced about our favorite ports:

Tromso

Alta

Stravanger

and later toasted our crew, who kept us safe and made our cruise so enjoyable.

On the other hand, we learned from current reports that passengers and crew aboard the Diamond Princess had been less fortunate. They were riding out a quarantine south of Tokyo while confined to their cabins. We learned that 218 passengers and crew had shown positive results among a sample of 700 who were tested.

On February 14th, there were 15 cases of COVID-19 in America and over 64,000 cases worldwide with nearly 1400 deaths. Speaking to National Border Patrol Council members, Donald Trump theorized that April’s warmer weather would stifle the spread of the virus.

Today, the world is on fire. At this moment, over 1.1 million people around the world have tested positive for coronavirus, killing over 57,000. The US has reported more than 277,000 cases with over 7,500 deaths, and there is no end in sight. The warm-weather theory has been debunked.

As I write, Holland America’s Zaandam has finally docked at Ft. Lauderdale, carrying 4 dead and another 26 passengers and 50 crew members infected with COVID-19.

Sadly, for the near future, there can only be one way to appreciate a cruise liner.

Bergen Walking Tour

March 19, 2020March 21, 2020Posted in Adventure, culture, History, landscape, museum, Photography, travel, wanderlustTagged Bergen, Bergenhus Fortress, Bryggen Hanseatic Wharf, Fløibanen, funicular, Håkon's Hall, Norway, troll7 Comments

After docking in Bergen, the Viking Star’s final destination of our 13-day cruise along Norway’s western coastline,

Leah and I were ready to explore our surroundings. First we wandered through the 13th century ruins of Bergenhus Fortress,

before entering Håkon’s Hall…

to regard the 1950’s restoration of the royal banquet hall that dates to King Magnus’s wedding celebration in 1261,

and where all furnishings have subsequently been replaced to commemorate the 700th anniversary of its first use.

Our walking tour continued along the Bryggen Wharf, a UNESCO World Heritage site preserving original Middle Aged buildings from the Hanseatic League trading era,

and the Old Wharf–

featuring a sea serpent once rumored to venture out from Bergen caves during summer nights to feed on sea traders.

We strolled across the cobblestones of Øvregaten, Bergen’s one-time market for craftsmen and traders,

but now home to residences,

galleries and specialty shops.

Finally we reached Bergen’s most popular attraction–its Fløibanen,

a funicular railway taking riders to the top of Mount Fløyen.

We passed through three stations in eight minutes,

until we finally reached the top.

Once we got our bearings,

we were rewarded with a wintry chill and a view that took our breath away…

unless that was the mountain troll’s doing?

P.S. This post (my 351st) represents 3 years of blogging! Looking forward to another productive year.

Narvik

March 16, 2020March 16, 2020Posted in Adventure, hiking, History, landscape, Nature, Photography, travel, wanderlustTagged Narvik, Norway, Polar Park, skiing, Viking Star, wildlife2 Comments

On our way to Bergen, Norway, the Viking Star docked at Narvik–a mountainside town reknown for its urban off-piste skiing,

and notable for its ice-free harbor,

which was of strategic importance during World War II…

for transporting iron ore that’s been mined from the world’s largest underground reserve in Kiruna, Sweden since 1898.

Leah and I had hoped to ride the cable car to the mountain restaurant to enjoy the view, but on this particular day, the mountain was closed because of nasty weather.

Instead, we braved the treacherous icy streets…

and climbed the hills for views of distant shores,

clusters of urban housing,

public art,

and commemorative sculpture, such as the National Monument of Freedom.

Expanding our horizons, we boarded a bus bound for Polar Park,

the world’s northernmost animal sanctuary,

and home to Norway’s large predators such as bears,

wolves,

and lynx.

Although the animal habitats are vast,

and the wildlife seem well-cared for, it’s impossible to look past the fencing and not think of Polar Park as a winter zoo.

The wolves have been humanized since their arrival in 2006,

and available for kisses and snuggles, albeit for an extra fee.

All things considered, I’d rather take my chances petting the barking dog that guards the reindeer down the road.

Next stop…Bergen!

Ode to an Odyssey at Sea

March 10, 2020Posted in Adventure, landscape, Nature, Photography, Poetry, travel, wanderlustTagged Alta, Aurora Borealis, Inside Passage, North Sea, Northern Lights, Norway5 Comments

The peaks were fearless

The winds were steady

The world was rushing by.

The clouds churned

About the mountain islands

Never budging

Anchored to an endless depth.

But when darkness settles

The sky salutes the sea

Always reaching

Never touching

Until the two enlist the stars.

Alta Mushing

March 9, 2020Posted in Adventure, Awards, culture, landscape, Nature, Photography, sports, travel, wanderlustTagged Alta, dogsledding, Finnmark, Holmen Huskies, mushing, Norway2 Comments

Tucked into the Alta valley, lies a kennel of 98 Alaskan huskies that are so eager to pull a sled, that a team of six can pull their anchor out of the ground.

So much so that it took a Holmen Husky trainer to restrain them.

It was that kind of energy that had Leah and me so hyped to run the dogs on the trail, but only after properly outfitting ourselves…

and learning the intricacies of mushing, as explained by Vicki from UK.

Most importantly, after witnessing the huskies’ enthusiasm, we focused on how to brake and when to brake!

After a visual review of the basic rules…

we were appointed to our teams.

For the next 90 minutes, we rode through birch forests as the snow gently fell.

Keeping our distance between sleds was our biggest challenge, as the dogs were more than up to the task of hauling a 25 kg /55 lb sled…

with two passengers.

When occasional braking was necessary to prevent our sled from overtaking the sled ahead, the lead dog always turned to us, as if to say, “Why are you slowing me down?”

And when Duke, one our wheel dogs sensed that his partner Nola wasn’t carrying her weight, he let her know about it.

Bred for speed and endurance, Holmen’s sled dogs can manage 10 to 14 miles per hour, and may travel over 90 miles in a 24-hour period, pulling up to 85 pounds apiece!

The Holmen dogs are happiest when they are working, and even more so when they are racing.

When our run was over, it was time to time to relax…

to pose…

and to cuddle.

A fire, a biscuit, and some blueberry tea was the perfect nosh after our wintry mush.

But doggone it, there would be no Northern Lights tonight!

Cathedral of the Northern Lights

March 5, 2020March 5, 2020Posted in Adventure, Architecture, culture, landscape, music, Nature, Photography, travel, wanderlustTagged Alta, Cathedral of the Northern Lights, Finnmark, Irina Girunyan, Northern Lights, Norway6 Comments

Our quest to chase Aurora Borealis continued aboard the Viking Star, cruising northbound through Finnmark, the heart of Norwegian Lapland,

and on to Alta, our northern-most destination inside the Arctic Circle.

Leah and I were praying for clear skies plus a surge in solar activity–given Alta’s reputation as the Town of the Northern Lights and home to the world’s first Northern Lights Observatory (1899) for conducting scientific research.

To that end, we mounted a pilgrimage to the Cathedral of the Northern Lights to increase our chances of an anticipated sighting. However, on this temperate night, an unexpected veil of dew painted the town, offering up a cathedral bathed in shimmery titanium,

lunging 47 meters (154 ft) toward an elusive phenomenon.

To the townsfolk, this sanctuary is as much a tourist attraction as it is a church.

It represents “a landmark, which through its architecture symbolizes the extraordinary natural phenomenon of the Arctic northern lights,” according to John F. Lassen, partner of Schmidt Hammer Lassen–a Danish design firm that collaborated with Scandinavian firm Link Arkitektur to win the city council’s design competition in 2001.

And there is much to appreciate about the design–outside and in. The exterior’s circular body mimics a magic curtain of light once illustrated by Louis Bevalet in 1838.

And the interior lighting resembles the long shafts of light associated with the Aurora.

Religious overtones are emphasized through the metal mosaics representing Twelve Disciples…

and the 4.3 meter (14 ft) modernist bronze of Christ searching the blue-glazed heavens, imagined by Danish artist Peter Brandes. While some worshippers may claim that a hidden face lives in the outstretched neck of the subject,

the illusion is subject to personal interpretation.

Consecrated in 2013, the Cathedral of Northern Lights functions as Alta’s parish church of the Church of Norway, yet remains an open forum for assembly and performance.

One-year after the first benediction, the concrete walls had settled and the pipe organ was installed. The dynamic acoustics attracted notable talent and filled all 350 seats.

Leah and I attended an organ recital by Irina Girunyan,

master organist.

While following a complex score for hands and feet,

Irina skipped and fluttered her way through an evocative program of classical and contemporary music.

The ethereal sound from 1800 pipes and 26 stops was heavenly,

and left me yearning for another reminder.

Northern Lights behind the Cathedral — *The titanium-clad Cathedral of the Northern Lights (Photo: Adam Mørk/schmidt hammer lassen)*

Ski-doo across the Arctic Circle

February 28, 2020February 28, 2020Posted in Adventure, humor, landscape, Nature, Photography, sports, travel, wanderlustTagged Camp Tamok, Norway, relationships, Ski-doo, snowmobiling, Tromsø11 Comments

Whenever I’m traveling with Leah, the driving usually falls to me. Don’t get me wrong; I’m not complaining. In fact, I enjoy driving as much as Leah prefers being the passenger. I figure our roleplay has lasted us through nearly sixteen years of togetherness and over 200,000 miles of highways and byways.

Over the years, we’ve worked out a reliable system where she tells me what to do and I’m inclined to ignore her.

Well, not exactly…

But ours is a predictable pas de deux that’s always destined for Bickerville.

For instance, if we’re traveling on the Interstate, Leah’s likely to order: “Slow down! You’re driving too fast.”

Typically, I’ll answer, “Okay,” and resume my present speed. I know it irritates her when I don’t accept her advice because she tells me so. Yet after a time, all is forgiven–but never forgotten. She never hesitates bringing it up again and again at my earliest convenience.

Similarly, if we’re driving in traffic, I’m likely to hear, “Why do you have to be on his tail all the time?” Her remark always seems to shift into hyperbole.

But I don’t blow a gasket. I simply suggest that if I was that close to him, I’d be able to read his license plate.

Then before too long, I’ll receive another Leah alert: “Slow down! You’re driving too fast.”

Occasionally, I’ll remind her, “You’re welcome to drive yourself, if you don’t like the job I’m doing.”

More often than not, she’ll respond with, “That’s okay. I’m good.”

But patterns are made to be broken. The chance of snowmobiling across the Arctic Circle brought a different scenario I didn’t see coming.

We arrived from Tromsø to Camp Tomak by the busload…

to participate in sledding for the day–either by dog…

or by engine.

After gearing up for Arctic climate…

we were ready for our safety and operations briefing.

That’s when Leah determined that she had no interest in driving, and even less interest in riding behind me.

“There’s no way I’m I getting on this machine with you,” she insisted.

“Why not?” I asked. “It’ll be fun!”

“Because I have no interest in getting hurt or dying,” she expressed.

“Neither do I!” I objected.

“And what if you should roll over?” she predicted. “I think I’d rather ride with Jan.”

Jan, our guide interceded and accepted to buddy-up with Leah. At first, I was insulted that she didn’t trust me–that she imagined I would risk our lives and limbs–until I realized what a huge favor she had done for me.

Without Leah behind me, I was free from scorn and criticism.

The snowscape was endless.

The cliff face was frozen.

The Nordic sky was vast.

And the scenery was breathtaking.

The guests had good reason to be giddy.

When the sun set behind the mountain,

we retired to the Sami tent for warmth, reindeer stew and tea.

Naturally, I thanked Jan for his hospitality and counsel.

“That was absolutely liberating,” I gushed. “I owe you big time for taking Leah along. Maybe you’d like to take her home with you,” I jested.

We shared a laugh together, but Leah wasn’t having any of it.

“Keep it up and you’ll be sleeping with Olaf,” she warned.

And that’s when I hit the brakes.

Chasing the Northern Lights

February 22, 2020February 22, 2020Posted in Adventure, landscape, Nature, Photography, travel, wanderlustTagged Aurora Borealis, Northern Lights, Norway, Tromsø2 Comments

Our raison d’être for making this pilgrimage to Norway’s wintry Arctic Circle and beyond was to catch a glimpse of the elusive Aurora Borealis. Leah’s extensive web browsing helped us determine the best location and time of year when solar activity would peak,

and Tromsø seemed to be a worthy contender for Northern Lights activity.

Hence, our excursion to track the Northern Lights had been booked months ago using a local outfitter who would drive us a reasonable distance away from city lights to improve our viewing potential.

We met Mag, our guide behind the Scandic Hotel, not far from the city square where earlier in the day the Samis were preparing for a weekend of Nordic games in celebration of their indigenous culture, including the reindeer race championship as the main event.

Our plush mini-bus departed at 8:00 PM with 12 world citizens aboard–representing China, India, Brazil, Argentina, and Florida–all with an equal fascination for Northern Lights, and all bundled up, since we planned on sky-watching for 3 hours in frozen surroundings.

Of course, there was no guarantee that the weather would cooperate (nullifying any opportunity of seeing the Lights), but with passports in hand, our guide was prepared to drive us across the Swedish or Finnish border if need be, should our original destination in the direction of Overgård be too clouded over.

As he drove, Mag would occassionally crane his neck skyward, peering through the windshield in search of a sign. After an hour, he steered the van off the highway into a remote turnoff, and signaled that we had arrived.

He admitted that tonight would be tricky because of the full moon and passing clouds…

but if we trained our eyes across the horizon, we might pick something up.

I planted my tripod and waited…and waited…and waited…

“There!” shouted Mag, “over the mountain.”

I panned my camera in his direction, and took a timed exposure, still uncertain of what I was shooting, and waited for results.

Mag was right! Something was there, but it was barely perceptible.

But who was I to judge? It’s just that I was looking for something more spectacular. Where were the crazy colors I craved, like the grand arc I recently recorded from a slideshow monitor?

“Be patient,” he advised. “There’s something going on here. But the lights are fickle, and it’s too early to tell if the activity is significant or not.”

After making some exposure adjustments, I waited again…until I recognized a dim shadow moving across the horizon…[CLICK]…

I was feeling somewhat gratified that I discovered the aurora on my own, but still, my Impression Meter was registering Underwhelmed, while my Expectation Meter was to set to Light Show!

Others among us wondered aloud if we should move to another location.

But Mag countered, “We could spend more time driving in the mini-bus, or we could continue to search the sky where we are standing. But I can guarantee that the sky we have here is the same sky we will find elsewhere.”

Perhaps if I looked in a different direction…[CLICK]…

By now, only the hardcore remained outdoors, while Leah and half the others had retreated to a heated van. Hot chocolate and biscuits were passed around to reinvigorate us and keep our numbing fingers nimble.

The clock continued ticking and our time was coming to an end. Even though the solar activity in the sky was nominal, we were still standing under a full moon on a starry night with a beautiful backdrop.

But then…[CLICK]…

our brightest sighting of the night!

The hour ride back was quiet. Most were asleep. But in my mind, I was calculating how many more opportunities we’d have to see the lights once again.

Tromsø–Arctic Cathedral

February 20, 2020February 22, 2020Posted in Adventure, Architecture, Art, Awards, landscape, music, Photography, religion, travel, wanderlustTagged Arctic Cathedral, Norway, Tromsø, Tromsø Cathedral, Viking Star13 Comments

Leah and I eagerly anticipated our arrival to Tromsø. For one, we were bored of cruising, having spent two consecutive days at sea after missing the port of Bodø because of high winds and rough seas (see Order of the Blue Nose).

But Tromsø, for us, provided the needed adrenelin rush to jumpstart our Norway adventure. Now that we finally arrived at the Gateway to the Arctic, we could participate in many of the off-the-ship excursions within our reach, like snowmobiling through white-carpeted mountain passes, and searching for the Northern Lights.

The Viking Star gently glided past Polaria’s domino-stacked building as Captain Nilsen steered us through the harbor on our way to docking.

While waiting for the local authorities to clear our vessel, I had an opportunity to photograph our new surroundings from our stateroom veranda, looking from stem…

to stern.

But one building that piqued my interest sat off the port side of the ship, nestled in the snowy foothills of Tromsø Sound–the Arctic Cathedral. Absolutely stunning!

Strikingly modern, the church was designed by architect Jan Inge Hovig and built in 1965. It’s roof structure was formed by concrete sheathed in aluminum panels,

as opposed to Tromsø’s other landmark church, the Tromsø Cathedral. Located in the center of town on the spot of Tromsø’s first church built in 1252, this cathedral was finished in 1861, and remains Norway’s only cathedral made of wood.

Leah and I crossed the Tromsø Bridge by bus for a closer look.

Likened to the Sydney Opera House, the exterior of the Arctic Cathedral is simple in shape and style,

while the interior design is modestly appointed to accentuate: the large prism chandeliers;

the sparse altar rail and pulpit; and the grand glass mosaic commissioned by artist Victor Sparre–depicting three rays of light emanating from God’s hand: one through the form of Jesus, one through woman and one through man.

The western wall of the sanctuary is complemented by Grönlunds Orgelbyggeri’s organ, built in 2005.

The Star of David radiating through the eastern wimdow symbolizes a spirit of inclusiveness and community acceptance. (Just kidding)

The organ was built in the French Romantic tradition, and was adapted to the cathedral’s architecture, providing illusions of sails and ice floes. The organ comprises 2940 pipes, measuring from 32 feet (9.6 m) to just 5 mm. Much of the woodwork is solid pine with bellows made of reindeer hide.

It’s a pity I never heard it played, as I’m certain the cathedral’s vaulted vortex provides impressive acoustics.

Back at the Viking Star, after a brief bout of daylight (6hrs, 15min.)…

I returned to my veranda to record the Arctic Cathedral bathed in moonlight…

and I imagined I heard Grieg’s Song of Norway playing from its soaring arches.

Order of the Blue Nose

February 16, 2020February 18, 2020Posted in Adventure, Awards, culture, Food, History, humor, landscape, music, Nature, Photography, travel, video, wanderlustTagged Arctic Circle, Bodø, geography, Hurtigruten, Norway, Order of the Blue Nose, Viking Star6 Comments

Captain Terje Nilsen of the Viking Star personally delivered the unfortunate news over the ship’s PA system during breakfast.

“Because of high winds, we will be cruising past the port of Bodø, and continuing onto Tromsø. I apologize for the inconvenience, but the weather is just not safe for us to make a landing.”

Of course, we were disappointed.

Bodø is a charming alpine village north of the Arctic Circle and home to Saltstraumen, the world’s largest maelstrom. Additionally, Leah and I had booked an excursion to Kjerringøy, and would have enjoyed hiking through this preserved trading post dating back to the 1800s.

But Captain Nilsen wasn’t kidding. If the gusting winds and pounding seas were any indication of what was witnessed as the Hurtigruten ferry attempted docking in Bodø, then I couldn’t imagine the Viking Star following suit–certainly not with so many passengers unable to handle the rough crossing from Tilbury, England.

Nevertheless, passengers were invited to the pool deck following breakfast to celebrate a longtime maritime tradition of crossing the Arctic Circle.

While Paulo serenaded us with folk classics and Beatles covers of Here Comes the Sun, and I’ll Follow the Sun, (ironic, don’t you think),

the crew assembled to initiate each of us into the Order of the Blue Nose.

Our Cruise Director, Brensley Pope took the microphone to give some background:

Good afternoon Ladies & Gentlemen and welcome! We have entered through the Arctic Circle, and it is time to make our journey official by welcoming you to the Order of the Blue Nose! First, a little history.

The word “arctic” comes from the Greek word arktikos: “near the Bear, northern” The name refers to the constellation Ursa Major, the “Great Bear”, which is prominent in the northern sky.

The region north of the Circle, known as the “Arctic” covers roughly 4% of the Earth’s surface.

The position of the Arctic Circle coincides with the southernmost latitude in the Northern Hemisphere at which the sun can remain continuously above or below the horizon for a full twenty-four hours; hence the “Land of the Midnight Sun.” This position depends on the tilt of the earth’s axis, and therefore is not a “fixed” latitude. The Arctic circle is moving north at a rate of 15 meters per year, and is currently located at 66 degrees 33 minutes North latitude.

Captain Terje Nilsen interupted, “I believe that’s enough history for now…”

The crowd responded with laughter. And then it became official with his declaration…

Hear ye… hear ye….

Whereas by official consension, our most honorable and well-beloved Guests have completed successful passage through the Arctic Domain. We do hereby declare to all in attendance and that those who possess the courage to take the Aquavit cleanse shall be marked accordingly, with the prestigious Order of the Blue Nose.

(Applause)

Captain Nilsen continued…

This is to certify that you all have been formally and officially initiated into the Solemn Mysteries of the Ancient Order of the Chilly Deep, and should wear your blue noses proudly! With the order of myself, the Captain, I command all subjects to Honor and Respect those onboard Viking Star as one of our Trusty Blue Nose family.

We officially welcome you to the Blue Nose Order! Skol!

I got my blue nose and drained my shot glass of chilled Aquavit. Was I now a proud member of a society of alcoholics and sun worshippers?

But I wasn’t alone.

Lines formed from both sides of the pool deck for distinguished crew members to efficiently annoint all worthy passangers with a blue-tinted dab of meringue.

What follows is a small sample of inductee’s portraits–some more enthusiastic than others…

United in singular purpose, we now shared a common bond.

To validate our accomplishment, each of us received a certificate of achievement validated by Captain Nilsen.

Soon after, while walking about the jogging track in whipping winds after a filling lunch, I caught a glimpse of what made this affair so special.

Now that’s what I call “Crossing the Line!”

Praying for a Glimpse of Pulpit Rock

February 14, 2020February 14, 2020Posted in Adventure, hiking, History, landscape, Nature, Photography, travel, wanderlustTagged Hengjane Waterfall, Lysefjord, Mission Impossible, Norway, Pulpit Rock, Rødne, Rogaland, Skavanger, Vagabond's Cave4 Comments

Having pre-booked Rødne’s 3-hour scenic cruise through Lysefjord–Western Norway’s most picturesque passage–

Leah and I were on an impossible mission to view Preikestolen (Pulpit Rock), considering the current gray skies and dismal forecast. Reknown for its views, and famous for its cliffhanger scene in Mission: Impossible–Fallout, we considered Preikestolen a must-see.

On the bright side, there was plenty of legroom aboard Rødne’s Rygerdronningen, a 297-passenger, high-speed catamaran that carried only 24 guests this particular day, many with camera lenses as long as my arm.

We pushed off at 11:00 am sharp,

easing out of the harbor’s protected waters,

and beyond the bridge,

where it became perfectly clear to us that this was a perfect day for seabirds,

but less so for Leah–who required a double dose of dramimine to deal with the swells propagating across the horizon.

Along the journey, we passed scores of coastline cottages,

whose owners regulary commute to town by boat during the summer months…

unless they have the means to vacation in Rogaland all summer long.

Midway through our voyage we passed under the Lysefjord Bridge–gateway to Lysefjord–

connecting Forsand with Oanes, a small farming village on the coastline,

that’s dwarfed by an imposing edifice.

We eased into the fjord,

flanked by looming walls of granite…

until the captain navigated the bow of the ship within a hair’s breath of the Vagabond’s Cave.

Legend has it that the cave was named after a group of vagabonds who used the shelter as a hideout for months, trying to escape the police.

As we backed out of the grotto to pursue a course to Pulpit Rock, the weather turned to sleet and snow, shrouding the cliff’s signature square flat top, 604 meters above the fjord, and driving most of the passengers indoors.

But there were some intrepid sailors who were undeterred, because they had little choice in their RIB (rigid inflatable boat).

We followed at our own pace…

until we reached Hengjane Waterfall, cascading 400 meters (1312 ft) into the fjord.

Soon after, we U-turned to retrace our wake before returning to Skavanger.

Marie-Charlotte van Kerckhoven was among the few passengers on board. While nursing a hot coffee, Leah and I heard about her hiking expedition to the top of Pulpit Rock the day before. Braving freezing temperatures and two feet of snow, she and her hiking buddy made the ascent to the 25 by 25 meters flat top in 4 hours.

She was happy to share her view,

and even happier to report that here was no trace of Tom Cruise ever being there.

Next port of call: Bodø

Stavanger

February 12, 2020Posted in Adventure, Architecture, Art, hiking, History, landscape, museum, Photography, travel, wanderlustTagged fjords, Gamle Stravanger, Norway, Stavanger, Viking Star5 Comments

Leah and I crossed a rocky North Sea from Tilbury, England aboard Viking Star (more on this Viking ocean liner later),

and docked at Stavanger Port on an overcast morning.

Stavanger is Norway’s third largest region, and best known as the European capital for the oil and gas industry–which explains the town’s Norwegian Petroleum Museum, and its unusual derrick-like design on the city’s waterfront.

Stavanger is also a popular tourist hub, as it’s the gateway to the fjords. To that end, Leah and I had booked an off-ship excursion to Rogaland to cruise through Lysefjord in search of Preikestolen, better known as Pulpit Rock.

But with some time to kill before our departure, we disembarked early to stroll along the harbor plaza to find our bearings, and regain our sea legs after a day and a half of cruising.