Tag: Thailand

River Reverence

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While sifting through hundreds of photographs taken during a recent tour of Southeast Asia (see past posts), I weeded out a wave of watercraft shots, and thought a maritime montage of nautical notions would make the perfect post.

During our visit to Kanchanaburi, Leah and I enjoyed time on the River Kwai in a traditional long-boat…

giving us splendid views along the water,

and a glimpse of river-lounging for well-heeled tourists:

But it wasn’t until we returned to Bangkok’s Chao Phraya that we gained a greater appreciation of the river’s transportation network:

of river buses, cross-river ferries, water taxis, and sunset party boats.

On another occasion, we boarded a long tail to cruise upriver on the Chao Phraya,

taking in the sites of the ancient capital of Ayutthaya…

along the waterfront.

But the mighty Mekong is Southeast Asia’s “Mother of all Rivers” and most significant waterway. It winds its way from the Tibetan Plains to the South China Sea, running through Myanmar, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia, and Vietnam, making it the region’s longest river at nearly 3,000 miles.

The Mekong is also the most productive river on the planet–boasting the world’s largest inland fishery–

which accounts for up to 25% of the global freshwater catch while providing livelihoods for 90 million people,

and supporting 54,000 sq mi of rice crops.

While touring upper Chiang Rai, Leah and I were hypnotized watching the confluence of Myanmar’s Roak River flowing into the Mekong–

separating Thailand and Laos to form the Golden Triangle.

But it wasn’t until our visit to Luang Prabang, Laos that we caught a second look at the Mekong–this time during golden hour–

which set the stage for our cruise the following day on a traditional wooden boat.

We motored slowly upriver to where the Mekong meets the Nam Ou River at Ban Pak Ou,

and disembarked directly across from the village…

to explore the Pak Ou Caves–Tham Ting and Tham Theung–located on the west bank of the Mekong River.

The first Lao people arrived at Ban Pak Ou from South China during the 8th century. They brought a strong belief in spirits and a profound respect for all things nature. It was an animistic religion known as Ban Phi.

The villagers believed that the caves were enchanted with river spirits, and they performed periodic blood sacrifices for prosperity and protection, but by the 16th century, Buddhism had been adopted by the royal families of Lao, who offered their patronage until the last days of the monarchy in 1975.

While Buddhism remains a unifying feature of Lao culture, animistic rituals continue to thrive and have been seamlessly integrated into Buddhist ceremonies, allowing Shamans and monks to symbiotically tend to the spiritual needs of their worshippers.

These days, the caves are a well-known repository for over 4,000 miniature Buddha sculptures, mostly old or disfigured impressions dating from the 18th century.

We were reacquainted with the Mekong during our stay in Phnom Penh, where we enjoyed a delightful sunset cruise on the river,

with all the beer we wanted!

The ever-shifting city skyline…

stands in stark contrast with Akreiy Ksatr Village on the opposite bank.

But a new ferry station supports continued growth along the river in every sector,

making Cambodia an emerging economic engine among ASEAN nations.

Lastly, during our visit to Vietnam, Leah and I traversed the Mekong Delta on a chartered riverboat.

As we navigated inside a shallow tributary, my mind quickly turned to Conrad’s “Heart of Darkness,” with haunting visions of Marlow’s journey on the Congo River.

Initially, our captain wondered if the incoming tide would lift our boat over the mud, unlike other sidelined sailors,

as we managed to crawl through the middle of the passage at low tide.

Eventually, we exchanged our boat for an excursion by sampan,

until we reached our next location,

where Siamese crocodiles are on the menu and not on the Mekong, thankfully!

There were many other water activities throughout our tour, yet nothing prepared us for a day on Tonlé Sap, where we observed Cambodians living on the water, full-time.

But that’s a story for another time…

Dueling Temples in Chiang Rai

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Rivalry serves as a profound motivator, compelling individuals to elevate their performance. It fuels our ambition and stimulates our creative capacities. Additionally, it sharpens our concentration and tests our boundaries.

At its most constructive, rivalry fosters a form of competition that can lead to significant achievements.

For example, had it not been for Gutzom Borglum’s monumental conversion of Tunkasila Sakpe Paha into Mt. Rushmore (1927-1941), there might never have been a Crazy Horse Memorial located 16 miles from Borglum’s masterpiece.

Afterall, it was Korczak Ziolkowski, Borglum’s assistant at Mt. Rushmore who imagined the Lakota mountainside transformed into the world’s largest sculpture of a 19th century Sioux chief on a horse.

As a work-in-progress since 1948, the completed head of Crazy Horse stands at 60 feet, matching the measure of George Washington’s image.

Similarly, visionary architect Frank Lloyd Wright designed Taliesin as his estate-studio outside Spring Green, Wisconsin. Wright’s organic design followed his affinity for infusing natural elements into his habitats (Prairie Stylings).

Forty-eight years later, Alex Jordan–although not professionally trained as an architect–drew inspiration from Wright’s Taliesin, and began construction on his own homestead, the iconic and certainly eccentric House on a Rock–only 6 miles down the same road, on WI-23.

In the hills of Chiang Rai, Thailand a similar rivalry exists between teacher and student, with their competing visions of divinity and righteousness expressed through different, symbolic colors: Chalermchai Kositpipat’s gleaming, ornate White Temple…

versus Puttha Kabkaew’s psychedelic Blue Temple, which borrowed heavily from his mentor’s neo-traditional style of Buddhist art. And we got to explore both of them!

We departed Chiang Mai for Chaing Rai, first passing through Thaweesin Hot Springs, our timely rest stop, and Thailand’s highest elevation thermal waters–where we stretched our legs, soaked our feet,

and where a Happy Room attendant eagerly pointed us in the right direction.

After arriving at the White Temple (Wat Rong Khun), we were greeted by a Transformer,

who seemed to reflect the otherworldly characteristics of the temple grounds.

The details behind Chalermchai’s bid to rebuild the crumbling temple in the village of Rong Khun are legendary.

In 1997, Chalermchai committed to self-fund the project as an offering to Buddha after a national economic downturn threatened its reconstruction. He did so for love of country, love of Buddha, and his love for the King.

He cast the chapel, the Sukavadee Bridge, the crematorium, and other prayer halls in white as a symbol of purity and spiritual enlightenment.

The mirrored tiles represent Buddha’s wisdom, which shines across the mortal world and the universe.

Silver Bodhi trees in public squares and walkways hold the wishes of thousands of visitors who pray for guidance and enlightenment.

Other buildings have been designed in gold–deliberately chosen to represent attachment to material wealth, and worldly distractions. The ornate Happy Room building is one such preoccupation,

while the golden bridge, ironically carries visitors to the golden gallery and gift shop.

At the White Temple, nothing is truly as it seems. Even the monk who adorns the chapel alter has been cast in wax.

The striking artistry and rich cultural symbolism elevate the experience and compel introspection at every moment. Within the Ubosot—where photography is prohibited—captivating murals that blend contemporary references and historical motifs vividly portray the eternal struggle between good and evil. Colorful representations of political figures, Star Wars characters, and Disney icons convey a compelling truth: rebirth, karma, and the cosmic balance of the universe stand as the ultimate rewards.

Puttha Kabkaew’s philosophical and spiritual manifesto clearly aligns with his mentor’s, Chalermchai Kositpipat, and it’s on full display–less than 10 miles away–at the Blue Temple (Wat Rong Suea Ten).

The temple’s name translates to House of the Dancing Tiger as a testament to the wildlife that once roamed freely over temple grounds a century ago.

Puttha’s cerulean-blue facade symbolizes the importance of meditation and inner peace, while gold accents represent enlightenment and emphasize the architecture.

The temple’s interior features a large statue of a white porcelin Buddha…

surrounded by surreal, contemporary Buddhist art. 

The Blue Temple is protected by fantastical, celestial creatures: like imposing Nagas,

fountain-loving Garudas.

and an Erawan.

Since 2016, the Guardian of Wat Rong Suea Ten has been intent on heralding the word of Buddhism…

But the road to enlightenment is a bit like trying to assemble IKEA furniture—it’s an eternal struggle! Buddhist imagery often showcases the bewildered faces of those in misery, serving as a nagging reminder of the struggles one must overcome to achieve enlightenment.

And one day, with the help of my fellow mortals, I hope to get there!

The History and Art of Bo Sang Umbrellas

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Bo Sang Village, of Chiang Mai Province, has a 200-year history of producing traditional umbrellas made by and with local resources. But it took a curious and enterprising monk to bring this industry to Bo Sang.

Legend has it that local monk, Phra Intha was gifted a beautifully crafted hand-made paper umbrella by a Burmese worshipper during morning offerings while on a pilgrimage to a Burmese monastery. It was a very thoughtful gift to shield him from the sun.

Impressed by the umbrella’s detailed design and durability, Phra Intha ventured to the worshipper’s Burmese village to discover that the umbrellas were made entirely of sa (mulberry bark) paper over a bamboo frame, and suffused with oil to also help repel rain.

Realizing that the same natural resources were available at his home, the monk saw a golden opportunity for the farmers of Bo Sang to re-create similar umbrellas to enhance their incomes during the post-harvest season.

Phra Intha dedicated himself to mastering the intricate techniques and skills required for umbrella-making. Upon returning to Bo Sang with his newfound knowledge, he eagerly shared it with the local community, igniting a collaborative spirit that led to the establishment of a vibrant village co-operative, with each community creating a component and playing a vital role in the umbrella-making process.

In 1978, the Umbrella Making Center was established by Thavil Buajeen, where every step of the process of hand-crafting stylish umbrellas has been consolidated under one decorative roof in Bo Sang, and where these parasols continue to draw favor from around the world.

Locals from Sa Bong report daily to the Umbrella Center to demonstrate their artisanship. They are mostly elderly women, by appearance. They squat on grass mats, grasping sharp blades with gnarled fingers, but they work so nimbly, so effortlessly, almost blindly at splitting and shaving bamboo rods into precision-sized spokes for the pulley apparatus.

They perform their tasks at individual workstations atop raised platforms that wrap around an open garden which is anchored by a retail outlet. It’s like walking through a living diorama.

It all starts with papermaking. Bark is first harvested from the mulberry tree and soaked for 24 hours. Then it’s boiled with several kinds of ashes for about 3 hours and clean rinsed with water. Next, the pulp is hand-beaten with mallets until fibrous. Thereafter, the fibers are places in a water-filled tank and stirred with a paddle until the fibers are suspended in the water. The fibers are then sifted through a screen and placed in the sun for about 20 minutes, forming sheets of paper that easily peel when dry.

Bamboo framing is prepared according to the umbrella radius.

Each stem is split into 36 spokes for the lower frame,

and precision-shaved for uniformity.

An equivalent number of bamboo ribs are produced for the canopy.

The spokes are assembled and strung between the upper and lower knobs to create the open/close mechanism.

Once the skeleton has been completed,

the paper canopy is applied and trimmed.

The finished product is now ready for detailing,

or indoor use, only.

Leah’s now ready for the 3-day Bo Sang Umbrella Festival which occurs every 3rd week in January.

Elephant Spas of Thailand

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On January 3, 2025, Blanca Ojanguren Garcia, a 22-year-old Spanish tourist and law student, sustained a life-ending head injury after being shoved by an elephant during a bathing ritual at Koh Yao Elephant Care in Thailand. The mahout (keeper, trainer, companion) in charge of the elephant was charged with “negligence causing death.” Authorities suggested the elephant may have been stressed. (https://www.bbc.com/news/articles/c9wlzz9179do).

Ms. Garcia’s tragedy marked the first fatality of a new year that saw 39 deaths in 2024. In fact, last December 11, a 49-year-old Thai woman was killed by a wild elephant that charged her at Phu Kradueng National Park. (https://www.nationthailand.com/news/general/40044052). She was one of 240 victims of elephant violence over the past 12 years. Consequently, animal rights advocates have renewed efforts to re-examine the ethics behind elephant management in Thailand.

Leah and I were in Hanoi at the time when I first read the headlines, and it immediately carried me back 3 weeks earlier when we were bathing elephants at Elephant EcoVillage–a prearranged activity at an elephant spa selected by Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT)–and it was a glorious time.

We were totally unaware of any danger during our interaction. Our menagerie was docile and compliant.

Nevertheless, humans have a troublesome history with elephants…

  • The first evidence of elephant domestication was discovered along the Indus River Valley in 2000 BCE–at a time when as many as 20 million elephants roamed the forests of Africa and Asia.
  • By 700 BCE, Indian elephants were instruments of warfare and combat.
  • Two centuries later, elephants were dying for sport and entertainment in Roman amphitheaters.
  • After 1600, warrior elephants lost their advantage on the battlefield as the Gunpowder Revolution gave rise to new military weapons and tactics. Elephants transitioned to beasts of burden.
  • The 1800s saw the first elephants exploited in circuses.
  • In 1989, the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES) banned international trade on elephant ivory, citing poaching as the biggest threat to their very existence.
  • A 2024 census identified that elephant populations had dwindled to around 450,000 globally, of which only 10% were counted as Asian elephants.

As of 2020, Thailand has tracked 7,300 elephants within its borders,

with up to 3,500 wild elephants occupying 69 forested sanctuaries.

That leaves 3,800 captive elephants who rely on tourism to pay for their continuing support and welfare. Conservation organizations range anywhere from “observation-only” shelters…

to “rescue centers” that promote elephant riding as a VIP amenity.

Asian Captive Elephant Working Group (ACEWG), a group of regional elephant specialists, veterinarians, researchers, and conservationists acknowledge that:

  • Closing all elephant tourism venues is unrealistic if there are no alternative livelihoods for mahouts with elephants.
  • Suitable habitats for reintroducing elephants to the wild have been marginalized by a loss of forest from over-logging.
  • Elephants are intelligent and mobile animals with a highly developed social structure. Their complex needs require professional management and care protocols.
  • Elephants–captive or wild–pose a safety risk to humans and must be managed accordingly.

While there are no easy explanations surrounding Human-Elephant Conflict, our half-day experience at Elephant EcoValley was designed to: “…share the elephants’ history, their culture, their current environment, and their relationship with the human species—compassionately and scientifically. “

Ben, our guide, introduced us to Tata, a 40-year-old female, and her mahout for the past 12 years, who has tirelessly devoted himself to Tata’s daily care, as a parent would care for a child.

Leah and I became fast friends with Tata,

but so did everyone else in our group, as she obediently posed with each of us.

There was also an educational component to our visit. We spent some time in their museum loading up on facts and understanding about elephant evolution, anatomy, behavior and welfare.

After a satisfying lunch of regional specialties,

we focused our attention on the prodigious appetite and eating habits of these magnificent beasts who typically spend 16 to 18 hours a day foraging for an array of grass, plants, bushes, fruit, twigs, leaves, roots, and tree bark–each vital for providing a mix of essential minerals and nutrients.

But captive elephants don’t always get the nutrition they need that’s necessary for good health. They also require a multi-vitamin to supplement their daily nutritional intake, and it was our job to produce them from a variety of ingredients.

The recipe called for crushing salt and aloe vera together in a mortar. Then cooked rice, tamarind, and bananas were added to the stump. Finally, we combined moonseed, Lasia, sugarcane, sedge, schefflera, Bermuda grass, and fresh pineapple to the mix and mashed it all until gooey and sticky enough to form pills the size of baseballs.

At last, it was time to feed our new friends,

and they couldn’t get enough!

Depending on their size, an Asian elephant can consume up to 300 kilos per day (660 lbs.) or about 18% of their body weight. And that creates a lot of poo. Elephants can defecate between 10-20 times a day, producing 100-150 kilos (220-330 lbs.) of dung per day. But the people at Elephant EcoValley have an answer for that:

Much of the dung is collected every day;

washed to remove the debris;

sent through a thrasher to separate the fibers from the pulp;

and screened through the slurry…

until finally drying into a sheet of poo paper that doesn’t stink!

Our time at Elephant EcoVillage was a delight, and none of us ever felt threatened or considered that we were exploiting the elephants. On the contrary, these were pampered pachyderms.

It’s uncertain if authorities and activists can agree on balancing eco-tourism with elephant protection, but with education and resources, ethical and sustainable practices can be achieved to benefit both elephants and the community in the End.

Toilets of Thailand

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In Thailand, you won’t hear anyone saying they need to use the bathroom. It’s not the WC, the loo, or the potty either. Nope, people are heading to the Happy Room, where the vibe can be a bit cheeky (all puns totally intended)!

By no means is this intended as a definitive and exhaustive chronicle of Happy Rooms we have witnessed, or in some cases, survived. It’s just that some Happy Rooms are more surprising/unusual/gross/etc. than others and are therefore more worthy of notice.

Some Happy Rooms are grand because the surroundings are grand.

Such is the case with the Grand Royal Palace–making for a more elevated experience.

Some Happy Rooms are thematic, such as the blue Happy Room of the Blue Temple, formally known as Wat Rong Suea Ten, or “Temple of the Dancing Tiger.” Planting trees between the urinals is an interesting touch. They give new meaning to pee pee trees.

For those looking for the ultimate bang for their buck, there’s the White Temple’s Happy Room, which assures all users a quintessential gilt trip.

Sometimes Happy Room directions can be explicit for good reasons,

while there are times when directions are self-explanatory.

Nearly all Happy Rooms with commodes have an external hose with sprayer attached to the flush mechanism of the toilet. Is it for use as a functioning bidet…

or is it for general cleanup when directions are ignored, and misses are inevitable? Because in Thailand, sometimes the availability of tissue squares can be a crap shoot!

Some Happy Rooms are whimsical; they come with voyeurs…

while others come with Peeking [sic] ducks.

Most times, all we need are the bare necessities…

because sometimes there are so many rules, that it makes more sense to sit like a lady, rather than standing on ceremony.

(Yes, the sign is from Hanoi, but it’s still worthy of consideration regardless of the location or the urge!)

Exploring Chiang Mai: A Cultural Journey Through Thailand’s Highlands

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After touching down at Chiang Mai International Airport, the stark contrast to Bangkok was immediately apparent. The air was cooler, humidity was dryer, and the AQI was no longer borderline, breathtaking.

We were at the gateway to the Thai highlands, in sight of Doi Suthep (elev. 5500 ft), and we were trading skylines for landscapes.

Exploring Chiang Mai’s heritage–rich with unique Lanna-style architecture, art, sculptures, handicrafts, and ancient temples–gave us the cultural opium we were all craving, with insightful opportunities to:

dive deeper into Buddhism (at Wat Phan On, inside the ancient city wall);

experience the folklore (of traditional Lanna Thai dancing);

admire the folk art (of a master carver from Baan Jang Nak);

appreciate the artisanship (of a reformed Karen Tribe villager);

savor the Lanna cuisine (of a traditional Khantoke dinner);

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and relish the view (from atop an artisanal coffee farm).

Tour highlights while visiting Chiang Mai included a nature walk through Mae Kampong Village…

which culminated in a hike up Mae Kampong Waterfall’s flume gorge.

Our journey continued to the remote village of Ban Buak Khang, where master carver, Phet Wiriya combined his childhood passion for wood carving with his deep affection for elephants…

culminating in “Baan Jang Nak” (a house full of elephants), a renowned studio that offers Lanna wood carvers an outlet to hone their prodigious fabricating skills.

At Baan Nai Soi village, we visited a community of Burmese refugees known as Karen, whose tribe crossed miles of Burmese jungle into Mae Hong Son province during 1985 to avoid Myanmar’s political persecution.

Consequently, Thai authorities designated 3 relocation camps within the Highlands,

which over time and not without controversy have evolved into tourist destinations, where “longneck” women generate income by putting themselves on display–not unlike a “human zoo”–for a $10 admission ticket.

Mothers invite their girls at the age of 5 to begin the process by winding a brass coil across their shoulders, beginning with about 3 1/2 pounds of metal and adding inches until they’ve accrued more than 11 pounds.

Periodically, women will exchange the coil for a longer one, calling for more turns–ultimately reaching 22 pounds of down pressure. But longer necks are actually more of an illusion. The weight of the brass bears down on the clavicle, compressing the rib cage, and pulling up 3 to 4 thoracic vertebrae into the neck. While the neck itself is not lengthened, the appearance of a stretched neck is created by the deformation of the clavicle.

While beauty is indeed in the eye of the beholder, it’s essential to recognize the complex and competing narratives surrounding the beauty of longneck Karen women. Anthropologists have suggested that long necks may have served as a form of protection, perhaps making these women less appealing to other tribes and thus safeguarding them from a future of slavery. Conversely, it’s believed that the coils would embellish a Karenni’s beauty by highlighting the sex appeal of her elongated neck.

Another perspective is that these coils create a striking resemblance to dragons, a significant symbol in Kayan folklore, which adds a layer of cultural richness to their appearance. Additionally, the idea that the coils might offer protection against biting tigers–whether in a literal or symbolic sense–reflects a deep understanding of the challenges these women might face, blending beauty with resilience.

In another instance of culture shock, we visited Wat Chedi Luang, a 600-year-old cultural landmark located in the historic center of Chiang Mai, and once home to the venerated Emerald Buddha (subsequently, relocated to Wat Phra Kaew in Bangkok in 1551).

It’s also home to the Inthakhin city pillar–protected within a nearby shrine,

and accessible for most to view, but with a major caveat!

Women should take note: that Thailand’s guarantee of gender equality comes with red strings attached.

Controversy continues with elephants on parade!

Finding Nature’s Bounty in Bangkok

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A peaceful area in the Phra Pradaeng district of Bangkok has captured the attention of eco-tourists who are eager for respite from the maddening tumult of city life, and local residents who are concerned about losing their connection to the land.

Bang Krachao’s origin as a forest reserve never fully took root when introduced in 1985. Unfortunately, conservationists and villagers were never given proper authority to dredge the canals or manage the orchard forests they once called home.  With villagers locked out, garbage gathered along the orchards, and the canals choked on excessive sediment and debris.

Thankfully, Suan Pa Ket Nom Klao Urban Community Forest project was established by the Royal Forestry Department in 2007…

allowing the villagers to assist in the clean-up of 25 acres of forest and waterways, followed by planting local tree species. Thus, turning the wasteland into a watershed of trees aptly named Bangkok’s “Green Lung.”

Today, the rehabilitation has borne new fruit. The community forest currently doubles as a nature classroom and an organic kitchen for sustainable ingredients.

By conserving natural resources and avoiding growth by limiting permanent construction, the community forest is flourishing with local edible plants intended for cooking local dishes for my tour group and me.

Our hostess, Prempree Trairat received us at the camp with a refreshing, home-brewed, ardisia blossom tea upon our arrival.

The homeopathic properties of the ardisia plant are mind-bending:

  1. Anti-inflammatory properties: Ardisia is traditionally used to reduce inflammation and can help relieve pain and swelling from rheumatism and injuries.
  2. Analgesic effects: The plant has been used to relieve pain, making it a valuable resource in traditional medicine. Whether it’s a headache, toothache, or general body pain, Ardisia is believed to have analgesic properties that can provide relief.
  3. Anti-cancer potential: Some studies suggest that Ardisia may possess anti-cancer properties, particularly in liver cancer. Although more research is needed to fully understand its potential in cancer treatment, this finding is promising.
  4. Respiratory health: Ardisia has long been used to treat respiratory tract infections and coughs. Its expectorant properties can help loosen mucus and relieve congestion, providing relief for common colds and respiratory ailments.
  5. Digestive benefits: Traditional medicine practitioners have used Ardisia to treat digestive issues like diarrhea. Its astringent properties may help reduce excessive bowel movements and provide relief from gastrointestinal discomfort.
  6. Wound healing: Ardisia’s traditional use in treating snake and insect bites suggests its potential in wound healing. The plant’s antimicrobial properties may help prevent infection, while its anti-inflammatory effects can reduce swelling and promote faster healing.
  7. Female health support: Ardisia has been used to alleviate dysmenorrhea (painful menstruation) and other menstrual issues. Its traditional use suggests that it may help regulate menstrual cycles and reduce pain associated with cramps.
  8. General blood circulation: Traditional medicine attributes Ardisia with the ability to improve overall blood circulation. This could potentially benefit individuals with circulatory issues or those looking to enhance their cardiovascular health.

While our group snacked on crispy tempura from locally harvested flora…

I assisted in crushing a basketful of prepared ingredients (turmeric, lemongrass, garlic, coriander, cumin, chilis, etc.) into a golden curry paste…

to flavor our yellow curry chicken dish…

nobly and ironically prepared by Stephanie, our ardent vegetarian.

Soon, all the elements had come together for an exceptionally, healthy and tasty meal!

Afterwards, some of us took a leisurely nature walk across a slatted boardwalk…

which gave us a personal perspective of our farm to table experience;

while others indulged in a traditional Thai leg massage–

taking some of us to a blissful state of nirvana.

Needless to say, by the end of our meal and massage, none of us was feeling any pain!

Our journey continues in Chaing Mai…

Exploring Wat Pho: The Reclining Buddha and Its History

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Photographing the entirety of the Reclining Buddha at Wat Pho is no small feat!

The soles of Buddha’s feet measure 3 meters high and 4.5 meters long. While Paul Simon was singing about “Diamonds on the Soles of her Shoes,” Buddha was “kickin’ it” with mother-of-pearl inlays. Each foot is distinguished by 108 panels featuring icons of flowers, dancers, white elephants, tigers, and altar symbols. A chakra (energy point) has been planted in the middle.

But back to Wat Pho for some historical perspective:

Wat Pho is a temple complex of 40 structures spanning 80,000 sq ft,

adjacent to the Royal Grand Palace.

It’s rich history dates back to the reign of King Phetracha (1688–1703), who is credited for constructing the first temple of Wat Pho, prior to the collapse of the ancient city of Ayutthaya (1351-1767).

However, it’s King Rama I (1737-1809), who moved the capital city to Bangkok after Ayutthaya fell to the Burmese in 1767, thus assuring the revival and rehabilitation of Wat Pho, and its designation as Bangkok’s most important monastic enclave. His ashes are housed within Phra Ubosot–Wat Pho’s most sacred building–beneath the Buddha, also rescued from Ayutthaya.

Of the 95 chedis scattered throughout the complex, the four tallest rise 42m and contain the ashes of Rama’s 3 successors. Chinese guardians offer protection.

The first chedi to be built by Rama I holds the remnants of the once great Buddha recovered from Ayutthaya, after the Burmese stripped it of its gold. The story goes:

Additionally, 400 Buddha’s were salvaged from northern Thailand and aligned along the cloister walls.

and courtyards–

while 4 other groups of 5 chedis were erected for the ashes of royal family members.

Wat Pho has long been considered a great center for higher education. Phra Mondop contains the Buddhist library, and houses preserved palm leaves inscribed with Buddha’s teaching.

Wat Pho is regarded Thailand’s first public university, training students in religion, science, and literature through its many murals and sculptures. In fact, medical scholars during the reign of Rama III (1824-1851) introduced 60 inscribed plaques to adorn its pavilions–30 each for the front and back of the human form–illustrating therapeutic points and energy pathways used in traditional Thai massage.

Several gardens and ponds also populate the grounds…

making it ideal as a backdrop for posing.

But the star of the show is the Reclining Buddha–not because it reclines (which is a familiar representation of his penultimate hours on Earth before his ascension)

–but because of its stature.

The Reclining Buddha extends 46 meters and stands/reclines 15 meters tall.

The statue and its subsequent enclosure (Building 29) were commissioned by Rama III in 1832.

Buddha’s right arm supports a head embellished with hundreds of chedi tresses, which rests upon two box-pillows encrusted with multi-colored, glass mosaics.

We would have meditated on this marvel forever, until Marc, a fellow traveler on our journey sounded the gong…

signaling our time to move on to our next adventure!

Walking through Bangkok

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Walking through Bangkok can be challenging. The traffic is relentless; the pedestrians can be pushy; and the “sidewalks” are compromised. But none of this should deter the intrepid tourist.

Our excursion began at the hotel’s spirit house (within the Thanon Phaya Thai district), where we paid our respects…

before continuing to Warehouse 30,

an art and design complex just east of the Chao Phraya riverfront,

where we found delightful exhibits and installations, intriguing antiques, and boutique apparel.

Nearby, we discovered Talat Noi–

a resurrected warehousing slum with meandering alleys filled with repurposed auto parts, shabby temples,

and wall art.

After another 15 minutes of sidestepping aggressive scooters along congested cobbled alleyways, we arrived at the Chinatown Gate, planted in the middle of an enormous traffic circle.

Chinese locals by the scores were making offerings at a local Buddhist Temple.

Chinatown Night Market was to our north,

but we were saving that for an evening stroll, when the street would close for Monday’s celebration of street food–filled with curious selections for adventurous eaters.

Our last stop included a visit to Wat Mangkon Kamalawat just before closing. It’s the largest and most significant Chinese Buddhist Temple in Bangkok. The temple is surrounded by shrines dedicated to a variety of Buddhist, Taoist and Confucian deities and religious figures worshipped by the local Chinese.

Worn out and wrung out, we took a taxi back to the hotel. We had walked nearly 10 km. in 90o heat. It was time to freshen up and consider a new adventure with an eye toward dinner.

The Royal Grand Palace of Thailand

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No visit to Bangkok is complete without a tour of The Grand Palace, simply because it’s beyond comparison.

Consider the enormity and scale of the site.

Covering over 2.3 million sq ft, its walled, rectangular space has evolved over the course of 200 years…

into a myriad of ornamental buildings,

grand halls,

and gilded pavilions…

surrounded by manicured lawns,

lavish gardens,

and decorative courtyards.

Much more than a royal residence that has housed generations of the Chaki dynasty, it was also the seat of power and governance until the abolition of Thailand’s monarchy in 1932.

Currently, it’s Bangkok’s largest tourist attraction (8 million visitors a year),

although it continues as an important backdrop for ceremonies and state functions, with royal offices still intact.

The Grand Palace is also the site of the Royal Chapel–known as Wat Phra Kaew–

which houses the Emerald Buddha–a 26-inch jade statue cloaked in solid gold and diamonds–which is considered Thailand’s most sacred icon and key to its good fortune and prosperity.

Photography within Wat Phra Kaew is absolutely forbidden,

but then, a photograph exists online with attribution.

กสิณธร ราชโอรสt

Only the King of Thailand is permitted to touch the Emerald Buddha (three times a year in order to change its shroud according to the season).

However, Leah was able to pet the nose of the bronze guardian lion protecting the temple.

Exploring Jim Thompson’s House: A Thai Heritage Journey

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Dashing through snow-covered Christmas displays,

and crossing over treacherous boulevards…

to serene hideaways…

flowing into idyllic canals,

we finally arrived at Jim Thompson’s house–

his private residence-turned-heritage museum, replete with a gallery, restaurant, and boutique–

all dedicated to Jim Thompson’s love of ancient Siam.

The compulsory spirit house surrounded by lush gardens–situated according to Feng Shui principles–informed us that we were protected from the steel and glass towers that enveloped us.

An English-speaking docent guided us through gardens and living quarters, which showcased archetypal Thai tapestries,

ancient wood carvings,

Buddhist watercolors…

and fanciful porcelain tea sets, among a dazzling array of other riches…

which inspired Thompson’s line of patterned silk fabrics used in clothing, furnishing, and accessories,

such that he single-handedly revolutionized Thailand’s handicraft industry during the 1950s and 1960s, earning him the moniker of the “Silk King of Thailand.”

His home has become an amalgam of Southeast Asian cultures…

and museum-worthy artifacts that he collected throughout the years,

sprinkled with practical flourishes, while serving as de facto US Ambassador to Thailand and founding the Thai silk company that still bears his name.

His status as a raconteur and entertainer of celebrities and royalty was legendary, but abruptly came to an end on Easter Sunday, March 1967. He had visited a friend’s house in the Cameron Highlands of central Malaysia, and took an afternoon walk through the jungle that day, never to be seen again.

Despite a land and air search effort involving hundreds of full-time trackers across multiple agencies and governments, it seems Jim Thompson disappeared without a trace.

There are many who have traveled down the rabbit hole of theories and conspiracies, determined to unravel the truth and possible whereabouts of his remains.

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Yet the legacy Jim Thompson left behind continues to this day, and Thailand’s prosperous silk industry remains his greatest contribution.

Starting Over in Bangkok

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With writing this sentence, my 6-month blogging hiatus is officially history.

All the while, I continued taking pictures, and I never stopped writing. I just got off the blogging merry-go-round for a time.

Instead, I took stock of nearly 25,000 images and analyzed 500 stories that I’ve shared with the WordPress community over the past eight years.

I soon realized after 3 years of blogging that I had already accomplished my mission of streaming through America!

That’s not to say that there’s nothing more to experience. But I can honestly say that since retiring, I’ve chronicled hundreds of visits to national and state parks and various landmarks and curiosities across the country, which amounts to the very best that America has to offer.

I’ve also begun to travel more internationally, and I’ve included many of those destinations in this blog. How could I not? Naturally, it wasn’t in an Airstream, and it wasn’t America. Although, in fairness, some of those destinations within Canada, Mexico, Central America, and South America should count as “American” by nature.

I also realized that many of the stories I wanted to tell were not always supported by the photographs I had taken. And often times, the photographs I was most pleased with didn’t always match the story I was writing.

I found myself making arbitrary rules that impeded my writing, like thinking that my posts should be a linear account of my travels rather than a reflection of an arbitrary moment in time.

Managing StreamingThruAmerica.com has been a blessing, albeit it’s been challenging yet exhausting; nourishing while enervating; fulfilling but frustrating, and rewarding yet fickle.

Nevertheless, it’s also garnered over 100,000 views–for which I received a silly badge from WordPress, which makes me smile;

and it’s earned an Editors’ Discovery pick soon after launching this blog.

I don’t know if all of that is worthy of celebration or not, but I’m certainly grateful for the recognition and all the support from the blogosphere.

What started as a personal journal of sorts and a means of checking in with family and friends has morphed beyond its original intent, and I’m okay with that.

I’ve toyed with refreshing the style and revising the content to fit the times (and maybe that may happen on a rainy day), but for now, it’s status quo.

The journey continues…in Bangkok–the first stop of a 5-week adventure to Southeast Asia–where ancient kingdoms still shine as bright as the Buddhas that adorn his temples.