Laos in Flux

Map showing GDP per capita across Southeast Asia with Laos marked at $2,000, indicating its position among other countries' economies.
Aerial view of the mountainous terrain in Laos, showcasing a mix of greenery and cleared land.
A tangled mess of electrical wires connects to a utility pole on a street in Laos, showcasing the country's infrastructure challenges.
A scenic view of a riverbank in Laos, with wooden boats docked by a pier, surrounded by lush hills and mountains in the background under a cloudy sky.
A green high-speed train traveling over a bridge with a mountainous backdrop in Laos, showcasing the country's infrastructure development.
A group of travelers walking towards a modern building with a traditional Lao architectural style, featuring a curved roof and decorative elements, set against a clear blue sky.
A view of the Luang Prabang railway station, showcasing a blend of traditional Lao architecture and modern design elements under a clear blue sky.
Interior view of a modern airport terminal with a high ceiling featuring decorative patterns, passengers waiting with luggage, and a spacious seating area.
A large, modern building with a gray facade, white balconies, and ornate golden details, surrounded by well-maintained gardens and a clear blue sky.
A golden Buddha statue is seated on an elevated platform within a beautifully decorated pavilion featuring intricate traditional Lao architecture, surrounded by smaller golden statues of standing figures in a serene outdoor setting.
A view of the Lao National Culture Hall showcasing modern and traditional architectural elements, with flags of Laos in front.
The Patuxay Monument in Vientiane, Laos, showcasing intricate architectural details and a busy scene of visitors gathering in front of the landmark.
A decorative ceiling featuring intricate traditional Lao and Buddhist designs, including mythical figures and vibrant colors, showcasing the cultural heritage of Laos.
A colorful water fountain display with illuminated jets shooting upwards, set against a backdrop of a busy public area with people walking around.
A man standing in shallow water holding a fishing net, wearing a green long-sleeve shirt and a white beanie, with overgrown vegetation in the background.
Hanging art installation resembling bombs, with a background featuring a map illustrating US Airforce bombing data and unexploded ordnance impacts in Laos from 1965 to 1975.
Infographic showing the 10-year trend of casualties from explosive remnants of war in Laos, including statistics for 2023 with total casualties, device types, and demographic breakdown.
A middle-aged man sitting on a chair with a serious expression, wearing a short-sleeve shirt and dark pants, with both legs visibly amputated below the knee and wearing black shoes, in a room with wooden furniture and crutches in the background.
A row of large, old unexploded bombs displayed along a wall in Luang Prabang, Laos, with traditional wooden houses in the background.
Sculptures of a woman and a child made from metal scraps, standing on a patch of grass outside a building with a sign that reads 'Helping People Move On'.
A sign made of crafted wooden elements forming the word 'COPE', representing a rehabilitation organization providing support for individuals affected by landmines and unexploded ordnance in Laos.
Display of prosthetic limbs hanging in an exhibit, symbolizing the impact of unexploded ordnance in Laos.
Three young women wearing traditional Lao attire with intricate patterns and accessories, smiling for the camera.

Wings of a Fallen Angel

U.S. Marine Corps 1st Lieutenant Victor David Westphall III and 16 Bravo Company soldiers under his command lost their lives in an ambush at Con Thien (“Hill of Angels”), a combat base near the former Vietnamese Demilitarized Zone.

But Victor “Doc” Westphall shaped his grief differently than 58,000 other Gold Star families who were looking to find meaning in their child’s death from a senseless and unpopular war. He and his wife Jeanne would dedicate the rest of their lives working to fulfill their son’s legacy by honoring ALL victims of the Vietnam War.

When sons or daughters die in battle, parents are confronted with the choice of what they will do to honor the courage and sacrifice of that son or daughter. Following the death of our son, Victor David Westphall, on May 22, 1968, in Vietnam, we decided to build an enduring symbol of the tragedy and futility of war.

With $30,000 seed money from David’s life insurance payout and another $60,000 in savings, Doc commissioned Santa Fe architect, Ted Luna to design a chapel on his Moreno Valley hillside property off U.S. Highway 64 in Angel Fire, NM.

After three years of sweat equity, Doc presented the Vietnam Veterans Peace and Brotherhood Chapel…

to commemorate the loss of his son.

The spartan, triangular-shaped chapel was intended as a non-denominational sanctuary, with the exception of a towering cross-like torchiere at the vortex.

But Westphall’s vision was running on fumes; he needed $20,000 per year in maintenance expenses, and donations were in short supply, especially after Maya Lin’s national memorial (the Wall) was dedicated in Washington D.C. on November 13, 1982.

Fortunately, the Disabled American Veterans organization committed to funding Doc’s memorial, and ownership was transferred to their foundation. The Disabled American Veterans charity tended “Doc’s” dream till 1998–building a much-needed Visitor Center into the hillside in 1986, and acquiring an additional 25 acres for a buffer zone before reverting ownership back to the David Westphall Veterans Foundation (DWVF).

In 1999, DWVF inherited a decommissioned Huey for the Vietnam Veterans Memorial grounds from the New Mexico Army National Guard, acknowledging the impact that the Huey had in Vietnam combat assault, resupply, and medivac missions.

After 17 years of ground service at the memorial, their Huey was lovingly restored…

and returned to its hallowed perch.

On Veterans Day 2005, Gov. Bill Richardson granted the Vietnam Veterans Memorial state park status, which secured state resources for needed renovations and a newly built amphitheater behind the chapel.

In 2007, a commemorative walkway was inaugurated for all U.S. veterans. The dates on the bricks-for-bucks signify the dates of service. Two stars denote the person was killed in action, and one star designates missing in action.

On July 1, 2017, management of the Memorial was transferred from the NM State Parks to NM Department of Veterans Services.

Doc Westphall died in 2003 at the age of 89, and his wife Jeanne died the following year. Both are buried at the memorial.

At the time–during the Vietnam War–I would have registered as a conscientious objector if necessary, as I had no taste for war. Lucky for me, I side-stepped conscription with a college deferment in 1970, and a high enough number (#181) in the Selective Service Lottery held on August 5, 1971. By then, Nixon had ordered phased withdrawals to coincide with Vietnamization. Consequently, fewer numbers were being called up to relieve the soldiers returning home, who received little fanfare and support from society at large.

Approximately 2.7 million men and women served in Vietnam over the course of 20 years without America ever realizing its objective–to thwart the spread of Communism in Southeast Asia.

So many young soldiers made the ultimate sacrifice to defend their country with honor, and so many paid the ultimate price with their lives. Moreover, far too many came back broken from their war experience. At the very least, we owe them all a debt of gratitude, and above all, our respect.

Thankfully, the Vietnam Veterans Peace and Brotherhood Chapel offers us a place to share our grief, heal old wounds, and bring us closer to awareness and acceptance of our past.