Bonnaroo–the Music

Imagine being in a newish band from a sleepy town in Wales, and you’ve just released an album of 60’s-styled psychedelic rock. A promoter plays the record and calls you to offer up the biggest opportunity in your music career–opening Bonnaroo 2023.

CVC (Church Village Collective) took the stage under That Tent on Thursday afternoon at 2:30pm to plenty of fanfare. They kicked off a 45-minute set with a rousing edition of their new single, Good Morning Vietnam, setting the crowd of thousands into a frenzy. As much as I would have enjoyed partying with them, I was more thankful for a seat on the raised ADA deck.

Early into their second number, Woman of Mine, CVC was interrupted by a PA announcement: “All visitors are required to evacuate Centeroo at once due to a serious weather alert half-an-hour away.”

The band unplugged and left the stage. Everything seemed so uncertain.

Up until showtime, Leah and I had kept a close eye on the weather, and lamented about the possibility of this event turning into a giant mud bash.

Naturally, we packed all the appropriate raingear in the event of a storm, but now it seemed likely that our weather anxiety may have been justified by this recent threat of wind and lightening. 

As we headed back to the Airstream under a gloomy sky, all we could do was speculate how this would screw up the scheduling and how the promoters would respond.

As I reported in Bonnaroo–the Logistics, over 100 acts across all genres were signed to perform at the 2023 festival.

With the exception of the evenings’ headliners: Kendrick Lamar, Odesza, and Foo Fighters, and a handful of notable acts scattered throughout the lineup, most of the performers were new to me. But that didn’t matter; I was at Bonnaroo for the experience and to discover talent new to me.

But that doesn’t mean I was evaluating all of the talent on my own. I got some much needed advice from my son, Noah–an aficionado of nearly every music festival under the sun (except Bonnaroo)–who was helpful in handicapping the lineup in order to maximize my listening pleasure.

Sure, there would be some missed opportunities given overlapping scheduling conflicts and 6 distant stages, but I was intent on attending as many bands as possible.

Centeroo re-opened at 4 pm without so much as one fallen raindrop. Gray skies had been chased by clear skies, and weather prospects were improving for the remainder of the weekend. By 4:30 pm, music had resumed at all the tents, and CVC was back on stage performing a compressed set.

The balance of my Thursday was spent hobbling between This Tent and That Tent, where the ADA attendants were some of the cheeriest people on the planet, as well as the best resource for canned ice water, courtesy of Liquid Death. “Happy Roo! Would you like some cold water?”

After CVC came transgender rager/rocker, Ezra Furman…

followed by bluegrass maestro, Molly Tuttle.

Celisse lit up This Tent with her powerhouse vocals…

and guitar shredding, the likes of Prince and Hendrix,

while Suki Waterhouse’s chic pop stylings…

brought back memories of her star-turn in Daisy Jones & the Six.

Leah and I called it a night after a non-stop, 1-hour power set of Latin funk from Cimafunk.

Stellar music performances continued unabated throughout the weekend with few production hiccups. We must have crisscrossed the Centeroo acreage dozens of times to find music we enjoyed. Leah’s Apple watch calculated 7 to 8 miles of daily trekking between shows and stages, turning large swatches of grass into a giant dust bowl when crowds would scatter at the conclusion of each concert.

Rather than critique every artist’s performance I attended, I offer a slideshow gallery of photo highlights from several notable performers: Danielle Ponder, Sheryl Crow, Leni Wolf, Three 6 Mafia, David Grohl (Foo Fighters), Hailey Williams (Paramore), Sammie Rae, Umphrey’s McGee, Franz Ferdinand, Hippocampus, Kip Moore, Paris Jackson, and Andrew McMahon

And when we weren’t watching the performers, we were watching people:

After Josh Freese’s last drumbeat (replacing Foo Fighters’ Taylor Hawkins) on Sunday night, Bonnaroo 2023 was in the history books…

and then the rains came.

Bonnaroo–the Logistics

Leah and I have launched another summer trip around the country–our 6th, for those of you who are counting–and while we usually leave in May, when Florida weather and politics become most offensive, we delayed our adventure by a month because I had the mad idea of attending the Bonnaroo Music and Arts Festival at Great Stage Park in Manchester, Tennessee, scheduled from June 15 – June 18.

By opting for a primitive RV site and a 4-day General Admission pass, we were guaranteed a grassy rectangle measuring 20 x 50 ft. for up to 6 days, and ongoing music from over 100 artists across all genres at 6 stages scattered over a 700-acre farm known as Centeroo.

For the next 5 days, we’d be totally reliant on our 39 gal. freshwater tank, and all the power we could muster from a roof-top solar array assisted by my F-150’s 7.2kW on-board generator.

This would be a huge conservation experiment for us, considering our current record for dry camping was achieved by overnighting at a Wal-Mart parking lot.

But first, a stopover in Nashville was warranted to prep the Airstream for the forthcoming festival, followed by mingling with the hoi polloi on Broadway after dark.

Of course, Nashville never disappoints, whether it’s the people…

the shopping…

or the Broadway bustle!

With a 70-mile drive ahead of us, we headed out at 7am on Thursday, anticipating festival traffic and longish check-in times at Outeroo campgrounds due to compulsory rig inspections for contraband.

Leah had done early research on Bonnaroo dos and don’ts, and each day, she would bring me an update of a new annoyance or inconvenience that always threatened to be a festival deal breaker.

“Did y’know,” Leah mentioned sometime in February, “that bicycles are not allowed inside the festival grounds.”

“Well, that sucks,” I replied, “considering we’ll be using them throughout the rest of our trip, and we have no choice but to take them with us. So what are we supposed to do with them?”

Leah located a bike shop en route to Nashville in Mufreesboro that would update the firmware on our ebikes and allow us to store a big black storage tub filled with glassware, cooking knives, and power tools–all restricted items inside Bonnaroo.

We arrived by 9am to less traffic than expected and even less fanfare during our inspection.

“Got any weapons?” asked a worker bee in a safety vest.

“Nope,” I responded.

He glanced at an over-stuffed backseat and truckbed without regard, then asked to see the inside of our Airstream. He poked his head through the door and announced. “I seen enuf, you’re good to go.”

“That’s it?” I said, whispering to Leah. “Is this a shakedown, or Is he fishing for a tip? Do you realize we could have brought everything with us instead of driving ourselves crazy with these bogus rules?”

“We carry an umbrella so it doesn’t rain,” is all she said.

We were directed through the gate and around a winding gravel road before we settled onto our grassy site,

and soon enough, we were surrounded by a non-stop tailgate party defined by beer, wine, and weed. Canopies, tents, and rigs of all shapes and sizes helped form a kaleidoscopic quilt of shelters and good times.

Randy from Alabama, my RV camping neighbor and veteran of a dozen Bonnaroo summers regaled us with many interesting stories of past concerts, and offered valuable advice on how to survive the weekend. When Leah lamented about the prospects of standing in the heat for hours with the hoards, Randy had the perfect solution.

“There’s an accessibility tent before you get to the Bonnaroo arch, and the staff there can issue a permit for your chairs and provide access to all the viewing platforms near the stages,” he suggested.

“Well, that’s a gamechanger,” I exclaimed. So Leah and I did as Randy recommended. We donned our knee braces, wandered through the Plaza 7 village,

and the Grove…

before we limped into the accessibility tent, where an attendant with multi-colored hair and a tiger tattoo registered us with ADA bracelets. Mission accomplished.

On Thursday, we learned that the 4-day passes and all Outeroo camping had sold out.

We were 85,000 strong.

What could possibly go wrong?

Next up: Bonnaroo–the Music…