Month: March 2024

Cuverville Island, Antarctica

Posted in Adventure, landscape, Nature, Photography, travel, video, wanderlustTagged , , , , Leave a comment

The journey continued beyond our early morning detour through Lemaire Channel. Viking Octantis set a course for nearby Cuverville Island, a protected rock lying between Arctowski Peninsula,

and the northern tip of Rongé Island, west of Graham Land.

Leah and I were keen to arrive at our first landing zone–originally scheduled days earlier by Pamela, Viking’s program director, who coordinated the excursions and edutainment events throughout our time at sea.

In accordance with Antarctic Treaty visitor site guidelines, Pam’s team launched a staggered fleet of Zodiacs to Cuverville Island capped at 100 visitors (excluding  guides and scientists) for a closer look at the estimated 6,500–7,000 breeding pairs of Gentoo penguins–making this the largest colony of this species on the Antarctic Peninsula.

Despite the pristine vista, we were forewarned by our Zodiac pilot/naturalist to expect an unpleasant smell on our approach to the island.

No joke. As if on cue, the stench of penguin poo was so sudden and overwhelming that  a couple of old-timers dared to let go of the  gunwale lifeline to hold their noses.

In a matter of minutes, we reached the landing beach, distancing ourselves from the eastern edge of the cobble, where the colony accessed the sea. It was no surprise that the guano-stained beach proved to be ground zero for foul fowl.

Eventually, we landed on the northern edge of the island. Before disembarking the Zodiac–a drill we perfected within the ship’s hangar–we were instructed to stay a minimum of 5m from wildlife whenever possible and avoid the penguins’ highway lanes.

Strolling the penguin highway

Easier said than done. These critters seemed especially curious of us when they weren’t preoccupied with preening,

impressing their future mates with the perfect selection of nesting stones,

or incubating on nests of captured stones.

Occasionally, an adult would sound the alarm for an invading skua,

whose interest in Gentoo eggs and chicks is always a threat to the rookery.

Leah and I hiked to the top of the promontory,

for an overview of Cuverville and the channel.

Sadly, we worked our way back to catch the next available Zodiac bound for Octantis, but the stories and adrenalin from the day carried us to sunset (11:25 PM) and into tomorrow.

Next stop: our kayaking adventure in Chiriguano Bay.

Behold, the Lemaire Channel

Posted in Adventure, landscape, Nature, Photography, travelTagged , , , , , 1 Comment

A familiar voice woke us from the public address speaker above our bed. I checked my watch; it was 6:45 AM:

“Good morning, everyone. This is your captain from the bridge. We are approaching a special spot along the Antarctic Peninsula known as Lemaire Channel, and after discussing with my officers, we will be cruising through this waterway because today it’s mostly free of large icebergs that can sometimes block the entrance or exit and bring us too close to the cliffs.”

I jumped out of bed, grabbed my camera, and ran to the Nordic balcony to power up the blackout blind. I didn’t want to miss a thing! Leah sat up in bed to supervise because she already knew what to expect.

“What are you doing? I hope you’re not going to open that window,” she growled as I was already lowering the window.

“Come see this! The light is perfect, and I’m trying to get a clear shot before it disappears,” I argued, talking over Captain Cardestig’s continuing announcement:

“But today, all of you are in for a treat because the sky is clearing, and the seas are calm.”

“And while there’s still some hazards to consider when sailing through this beautiful channel, much of the small ice has already broken up from the warmer weather,

and we can easily guide Octantis around the bigger ice.”

Leah clutched the blanket around her in surrender while I braced against the window in my birthday suit, capturing unimaginable views with little concern for the crisp Antarctic air.

Captain Cardestig continued, “But best of all, the kitchen staff is serving breakfast buffet at the bow of the ship. So please dress warmly, and join us outside for this remarkable voyage, and don’t forget to bring your cameras and binoculars.”

“I guess we’re getting dressed,” Leah lamented. “And could you shut that window! It’s fucking freezing in here!”

Lemaire Channel is a narrow strait of glossy water that traverses 11 km between Booth Island in the Wilhelm Archipelago and Graham Land–shrinking to 600 meters at its narrowest point. With views of stunning snowcaps atop dramatic cliffs, Lemaire Channel easily earns its moniker, “Kodak Gap.”

It was all hands around the bow deck. Leah and I joined the crowd, hopelessly jockeying for a position at the rail, until we found solace on the upper deck away from the fray,

where we were content to enjoy breathtaking vistas,

and watch the world float by.

There were penguin playgrounds …

and a pod of Orcas along the way,

but for now, the real star of the show was the scenery.

When Octantis eventually reached open water…

with captivating views of the Argentine Islands,

Captain Cardestig turned the ship around, allowing us to enjoy the approach from the opposite direction.

And it was just as impressive as the first pass!

Next stop: Cuverville Island

Fournier Bay, Antarctica

Posted in geology, landscape, Nature, Photography, travel, video, wanderlustTagged , , , , , 2 Comments

It was a dramatic crossing from Ushuaia to the Antarctic Peninsula, and the reward was visceral.

When seas had finally calmed, relieved passengers emerged from their cloistered cabins, looking refreshed and revitalized, with a “what’s-for-breakfast” look on their faces. There was a literal pep in their step as they attacked the buffet on Deck 6.

I attended the 10 A.M. daily briefing in the Aula, a two-tiered, smartly equipped, and fashionable auditorium,

while Leah live-streamed the event on the wall-mounted, flat screen TV in the privacy of our well-appointed Nordic hive on Deck 4.

At the briefing, our Program Director confirmed that our first destination would be Fournier Bay, a picturesque sanctuary located in the Palmer Archipelago, and situated on the northeast coast of Anvers Island, a mountainous coastal enclave just above the Antarctic Circle.

Our flexible activity assignments were previously distributed in anticipation of our arrival, although none of us would be scheduled for a landing, as deep water and rocky surroundings were among deciding factors.

However, it was a perfect opportunity to board a Zodiac for a closer inspection of the coastline. According to our team schedules, we gathered in the hangar, all of us outfitted and overheated in our complimentary expedition jackets, and waited patiently …

until the next Zodiac became available.

The water was calm as our pilot dodged floating chunks of ice,

and weaved through more formidable icebergs on our approach to the Anvers Island.

It was nearly impossible to contain our giddiness as we cruised closer to shore,

where we reached an outcropping of volcanic granite.

That’s where we spotted a solitary chinstrap penguin–identifiable by the telltale line that runs under his helmet–who was posing on a puddle of penguin poop for our benefit.

It was our first Antarctic wildlife encounter, but judging from the penguin’s apparent apathy, probably not his first photo shoot.

The excursion was brief and memorable, but easily topped the following day by an early morning sail through the Lemaire Channel, featuring breathtaking views of mirrored mountains standing against azure skies.

Stay tuned.

Sailing the Drake Passage

Posted in Adventure, landscape, Photography, travel, wanderlustTagged , , , 2 Comments

While Leah and I enjoyed a gourmet buffet lunch aboard Viking Octantis, Captain Bo Joergen Cardestig and crew readied our ship for departure. The gangway was pulled while we were docked across from Celebrity Eclipse with capacity for 5700 guests,

and I was instantly grateful that we’d be cruising with 350 like-minded wanderlusters aboard a Polar Class 6 vessel that was purposely engineered to cut through Antarctica’s summer ice …

replete with a hangar full of aquatic goodies, like a dozen kayaks,

a fleet of Zodiacs,

two 12-passenger, high speed special operation boats (SOB’s) with a 26-metre (85 ft) custom stern slipway,

and a dive boat supporting 2 Cruise Sub 7-300 yellow submarines named “John” and “George.”

The Octantis quietly slipped out of Ushuaia harbor and into open water, offering pristine views of Argentina from port side,

and Chile from the starboard side, as we glided through the Beagle Channel.

This was also a time for briefings–from safety instruction,

to practical training for many of the aforementioned expedition activities, especially when transferring between watercraft, and executing shore landings.

Once Octantis rounded Cape Horn, we had officially entered the Drake Passage, a dangerous waterway prone to strong ocean currents, huge rogue waves, and violent storms.

The 700-mile voyage to Fournier Bay–our next land mass–would take two sea days.

While we were protected by an expedition vessel intended to improve stability and mobility and lull us to sleep in Nordic luxury inside our 215 sq ft cocoon, it was hard to ignore outside conditions. Beyond our retractable blackout blinds, we were being whipped about by 45 knot winds accompanied by 30-foot swells. This was categorically the “Drake Shake” queasiness that many guests have dreaded but vowed to overcome.

Leah indulged in anti-nausea medication, while other guests relied on motion-sickness patches and pressure-point wristbands. I opted for none of the OTC remedies, and without consequence. Seasickness was not an option. Instead, we kept ourselves hydrated; we took naps; we ordered complimentary room service, and distracted ourselves by keeping busy with lectures, movies, conversation, and ship business.

A ready team of naturalists had assembled to micro-inspect all of our outerwear and camera gear before we’d be permitted to go ashore. A biosecurity check was warranted to rid our belongings of all foreign organic material (e.g. dirt, crumbs, seeds, insects) that might be secreted in our sleeves, seems, cuffs, pockets and hoods, which could potentially sully an Antarctic ecosystem. Our adventure team took their work very seriously, peering through magnifying glasses with high intensity lights. Tweezers, toothbrushes and hand vacuums made worn apparel fresh again.

Afterwards, all of us were outfitted with proper-sized rubber boots, waterproof pants, and a snake-shaped life jacket.

During the crossing, I had managed to overcome my sea legs by sprinting and pausing against the sway in a zigzag pattern as I’d make my way through the ship’s long corridors. It wasn’t pretty, but it was effective.

During our second day at sea, Captain Cardestig’s voice bellowed through the P.A. for all to hear, “Ladies and Gentlemen, we are approaching our first ice!” Rather than stagger through the common space with a hundred other camera jockeys, I powered down the Nordic balcony window in my cabin, and welcomed in the blustery snow showers that offered a prismatic backdrop to an ice mass resembling a sinking ship. Not exactly the best of omens!

Two hours later, the hangar toys were lowered into the icy bay and a scouting team was dispatched to assure a successful expedition.

We had made it to Fournier Bay!

The Antarctic adventure continues …

Urban South America

Posted in Adventure, Architecture, History, Nature, Photography, religion, travel, video, wanderlustTagged , , Leave a comment

Two of South America’s great urban centers–Santiago, Chile and Buenos Aires, Argentina served as designated transfers on our journey to the bottom of the world, but time would not allow Leah and me to explore our interim surroundings to the fullest. Nevertheless, we hit the ground running,

utilizing the long summer days to our advantage and netting a few memorable moments and postcard pearls to satisfy our wanderlust.

Santiago is a vibrant capital sandwiched between the Coastal Range and the Andean Mountains, and best experienced from the summit of San Cristobal Hill–

accessible by cable car from the east,

or by funicular from the west.

For many Catholics, the pilgrimage to the top of Cerro San Cristobal is incomplete without hiking to the Sanctuary of the Immaculate Conception,

where a statue of the Virgin Mary rises 14 meters from her pedestal.

The Catholic Archdiocese is based at the neoclassical Metropolitan Cathedral at the Plaza de Armas,

where it stands as the centerpiece of the square.

The opulence of the sky-blue frescos and the cathedral’s gilded columns are a testament to the hundreds of artisans who toiled for decades to evoke the aesthetics of Tuscany and Rome.

On the civics side of the peso chileno, there is also a wealth of Beaux-Arts architecture that dominates the cityscape, from the Supreme Court building…

to Constitution Square.

Leah and I initially arrived in Santiago, Chile, only to fly out the following day to the Antofagasta region, where the Atacama Desert figured large in our itinerary (see Atacama Desert). Then it was back to Santiago, for an overnight, before an early departure to Buenos Aires, where our time was sorely limited to an amazing rib-eye dinner in the midst of Monserrat,

followed by a necessary “walk-off-our-meal” stroll through the city’s oldest district, replete with sidewalk bistros,

political art,

and public buildings defended by commemorative art,

and protected by full-figured gargoyles.

The following afternoon, we arrived in Ushuaia, acclaimed as the southernmost city on the planet.

Although our ship Viking Octantis awaited us at the harbor (just kidding),

Leah and I still managed to appreciate the Patagonian panorama surrounding the waterfront,

the inland tributes and monuments,

and the resplendent gardens scattered throughout the town.

Ushuaia surprised me. I anticipated a sleepy town, but discovered a hive of trendy shops, boutique hotels, and pricey outfitters. The scenery was unparalleled, and the weather was ideal. It seemed the perfect segue to an exciting Viking expedition.

And so, the time had come to embark on our adventure to the White Continent by first surrendering to the dreaded Drake Passage…