Month: May 2025

Exploring Angkor Wat

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Siem Reap Province, located in northwestern Cambodia, possesses significant cultural, religious, and symbolic value, and is also renowned for its architectural, archaeological, and artistic importance. Furthermore, Siem Reap is home to Angkor Archaeological Park, the world’s largest religious monument complex and the cornerstone of Cambodia’s tourism sector.

Our O.A.T. group overlanded from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap with a stopover at the ancient Kampong Kdei Bridge, constructed in the 12th century during the reign of King Jayavarman VII.

The bridge is a testament to the engineers who designed the 87m river span with 21 corbelled arches of laterite, making it the longest structure of its kind in the world.

A view of the ancient Kampong Kdei Bridge, showcasing its impressive 12th-century architecture with multiple corbelled arches over a dry riverbed, set against a clear blue sky.

Nine-headed nagas–whose bodies form a continuous balustrade alongside the roadbed–welcome only pedestrians and cycles on the bridge because of weight restrictions.

A detailed close-up of a stone sculpture depicting a nine-headed naga, showcasing intricate carvings and textures, set against a blue sky.

While admiring the scenery, I paused a moment to consider that Leah and I were walking the same trail as the Chinese merchants who traded along the Maritime Silk Road nearly a millennium ago. Back then, it was a 2-day trek through the lowlands to reach Angkor Wat.

A person in a hooded jacket and face mask rides on a wooden cart pulled by two water buffalo along a rural path surrounded by greenery.

But not for us; we stepped out of our air-conditioned coach the following morning, well before the crowds, to cross a moat symbolizing the cosmic ocean in Hindu cosmology.

Lush greenery surrounds a tranquil lake, with trees lining the water's edge and a cloudy sky overhead.

While getting our bearings, our guide Seong, a native of Siem Reap revealed Cambodia’s worst kept secret: by arriving at Angkor Wat’s Death Gopura (East Gate), we were avoiding the popular western gateway with five times the tourists.

Restoration work on an ancient temple in Siem Reap, Cambodia, featuring scaffolding, surrounded by lush trees and fallen leaves on the ground.

The cloud cover flattened the morning light on our approach down the expansive causeway. It was the best time for photographing Angkor. Eventually, we reached a break in the trees, perfectly framing the famed lotus tower of this Khmer masterpiece. It was reminiscent of the thrill I felt after emerging from the slot canyon in Jordan and peeking at Petra for the first time at first light.

A view of Angkor Wat, a grand Khmer temple, with a crowd of visitors walking towards its entrance, surrounded by trees and greenery.
A view of the intricate architecture of Petra, framed by tall rock cliffs, showcasing carved columns and reliefs in the sandstone.

Much has been written about Angkor Wat:

A panoramic view of Angkor Wat, with numerous visitors exploring the temple grounds, framed by trees and a cloudy sky.

About its monumental size,

A view of Angkor Wat under cloudy skies, featuring the temple's distinct architecture with its multiple spires and a nearby stone naga statue in the foreground.

spanning 402 acres,

Angkor Wat, a monumental temple complex in Siem Reap, Cambodia, showcasing its intricate architecture and historic significance.

or 4 times the size of Vatican City;

Angkor Wat temple structure showcasing intricate architecture amidst lush greenery in Siem Reap, Cambodia.

It’s intricate bas-relief carvings throughout the temples and galleries;

Intricate bas-relief carvings showcasing historical and mythological figures from Khmer culture on a temple wall in Angkor, Cambodia.

Its historical significance, showcasing Khmer mythology and history etched into laterite stone;

Bas-relief carving depicting a scene from Hindu mythology, featuring a figure surrounded by multiple smaller figures, illustrating the artistic significance and intricate detailing of Angkor Wat.
Churning of the Sea of Milk
Intricate bas-relief carvings depicting a historical battle scene, showcasing detailed figures and intricate designs, part of the Angkor Wat temple complex in Cambodia.
Heaven and Hell
Close-up view of a bas-relief carving depicting warriors on horseback and infantry, showcasing the intricate artistry of Khmer culture in Angkor Wat.
Military Parade of Kink Suryavarman II

Its religious significance–originally constructed in the 12th century as a Hindu temple dedicated to Vishnu but converted to a Theravadin Buddhist temple during the 15tth century to reflect the shift in Cambodia’s spiritual landscape;

This image depicts a detailed bas-relief sculpture of a seated figure, adorned with intricate traditional Cambodian attire and jewelry, surrounded by ornate decorative patterns.
Hindu Goddess
A statue of a Buddha seated in a meditative pose, protected by a nine-headed naga hood, with offerings of a lotus flower and food placed in its lap, set against the backdrop of an ancient temple.
Buddha seated on Mucilinda, King of the Serpents

And its architectural accomplishment–a profound reflection of Hindu cosmology, particularly the concept of Mount Meru, regarded as the mythical abode of the deities. The central tower of Angkor Wat epitomizes the summit of Mount Meru, while the adjacent smaller towers signify the mountain’s subordinate peaks. The moat and the rectangular outer wall delineate the oceans and the boundaries of the world, respectively.

A detailed scale model of Angkor Wat, showcasing its intricate architectural features and layout.

Restoration and maintenance have become routine endeavors in Angkor, which fell into neglect following the capital’s relocation to Phnom Penh in 1434. The site garnered renewed attention after being rediscovered by French naturalist Henri Mouhot in 1858.

A worker is restoring intricate stone carvings on a temple in Siem Reap, Cambodia, using scaffolding for support.

An international task force supported by Japan, India, France, South Korea, and other contributing nations have collaborated with APSARA National Authority, the Cambodian government agency responsible for Angkor’s ongoing preservation and management, to address the extensive neglect and restore the temple to World Heritage status.

A corridor at Angkor Wat with intricate stone walls and a roof with visible carvings, populated by tourists walking along the path.
Ceiling before repair
Interior view of Angkor Wat showcasing a detailed ceiling with floral patterns and carved stone walls. Visitors observe the intricate designs along the corridor.
Ceiling after repair

Recently, new risers have been completed by the Korea Heritage Agency…

Visitors climbing the steep wooden stairs of Angkor Wat, showcasing the temple's iconic structure in Cambodia.

giving access to the Bakan (central sanctuary),

A detailed architectural plan of Angkor Wat, highlighting its complex layout and design features with marked sections in red.

which supports the amazing quincunx of towers,

Close-up view of the central tower of Angkor Wat, showcasing its intricate architectural details and carvings against a blue sky.

offering amazing views,

Aerial view of Angkor Wat temple complex in Siem Reap, Cambodia, showcasing its intricate rooftops and surrounding lush greenery with visitors walking along pathways.

and providing sanctuary for a rare wooden Buddha sculpture whose head remains intact,

A wooden Buddha statue draped in a golden robe, standing in a niche with a decorative background, symbolizing religious significance.

unlike most of the other Buddhas who fell victim to so many marauders over the centuries.

A partially eroded statue with missing head and arms, set against an ancient stone backdrop, showcasing intricate designs typical of Khmer art.

But amidst the vastness and splendor surrounding us, it was the people donning their Sunday best who truly captured my attention with their warmth and spirit.

A man and a woman in traditional Cambodian attire, posing together with a bouquet of flowers, against a scenic backdrop that hints at the cultural significance of their location.

often posing by the Reflecting Pool for the quintessential photograph, or so I thought.

Two people in traditional Cambodian attire posing by a reflecting pool in front of Angkor Wat, with palm trees and the temple complex in the background.

Unfortunately, the wind kicked up, causing the pool to ripple ever so slightly and affect my mirrored imagery.

View of Angkor Wat temple, with lush greenery and palm trees reflected in the water of the surrounding moat.

However, by returning the following day for a sunset farewell to Angkor, I believe I captured the iconic shot that characterizes Cambodia’s cultural landscape.

A tranquil view of Angkor Wat reflecting in the moat, highlighting the iconic lotus towers and surrounding lush greenery during a serene early morning.

The experience not only fulfilled a bucket-listed destination but deepened my appreciation for the rich heritage of Cambodia, reminding me that some locations leave an indelible mark on our souls.

Postcards from Phnom Penh

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Random snaps of landmarks, skylines, and curiosities captured while cruising around town. There is no particular theme or connection, but these images caught my eye, nonetheless!

Flyer beware!
A modern skyline reshapes Center City
Areiksart Ferry Port
Krong Ta Khmau–Phnom Penh suburbia
Anatomical door handles
Independence Monument
King Norodom Sihanouk Memorial
King Norodom Sihamoni portrait from Sisowath Riverside Park
Royal Palace of Cambodia
Meat market beef parts
Protecting lives by improving sanitation–one flush at a time
Toilet protocol
Street art
Sangkat Chakto Mukh–upscale community
“Good time for a Krud,” 2023 World Beer Gold medal winner

Surviving Toul Sleng

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Phnom Penh and the Khmer Republic fell to the Khmer Rouge on April 17, 1975.

A historical photograph depicting a crowd of people on the streets of Phnom Penh during the Khmer Rouge's takeover on April 17, 1975, with an armed soldier present.

For the Communists, it was Liberation Day and cause for celebration.

A historical black-and-white photograph depicting a large group of people, including children, celebrating on a street, displaying expressions of joy and excitement, with palm trees and buildings in the background.

While it marked the end of civil war, it was the beginning of one of history’s darkest chapters. Almost immediately, the Khmer Rouge ordered the exodus of the city’s 2 million inhabitants.

A large crowd of people, many carrying belongings and wearing traditional conical hats, is depicted in a busy street scene. Smoke rises in the background, suggesting a tense or chaotic atmosphere during the Khmer Rouge takeover in Phnom Penh.
from Agence Khmere de Press archive

Khmer Rouge strongman, Pol Pot declared 1975 “Year Zero,” in his quest to build a classless agrarian utopia patterned after Maoist China, but it also marked the start of a genocide that would devastate the country, claiming over 25% of the population through forced labor, starvation and slaughter.

It started with a civil servant purge that eliminated tens of thousands of military loyalists, local police, and anyone associated with the previous government. Additional targets included academics, professionals, and “impure” ethnic minorities.

To facilitate the Khmer Rouge agenda, an education campus in Phnom Penh that housed Tuol Svay Prey High School and Tuol Sleng Primary School was commandeered and codenamed “S-21”–the nerve center of the Khmer Rouge secret police.

A sign titled 'The Gallows' stands in a courtyard surrounded by trees and greenery, with a view of a building in the background. The sign provides historical context regarding the site during the Khmer Rouge regime, including an illustration.

The survivors remember that day as the day when hope turned to horror, changing their lives forever.

Black and white photograph of six men standing together outside, possibly former prisoners or survivors of the Khmer Rouge regime, with names and information printed below.

For Vann Nath (tall man in the middle), the unexpected journey to Tuol Sleng began with his arrest in 1978 while working in a rice field. Before 1975, he led a normal life as a commercial artist in Battambang. The Khmer Rouge first detained him at Wat Kandal–a temple turned detention center– and accused him of violating the regime’s moral code before moving him to S-21.

Visitors entering the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, formerly a school turned detention center, with barbed wire fencing visible in the foreground.

Detainees arrived in handcuffs and were immediately photographed. Today, their images hang on bulletin boards as a numbing reminder of their journey into hell.

Two large display frames containing black and white photographs of individuals, each wearing identification tags. The images are arranged in a grid pattern, showcasing the faces of detainees from the Khmer Rouge era.

Following intake and registration, they were showered.

A mural depicting detainees at Tuol Sleng, illustrated by Vann Nath, showing survivors being doused with water in a grim prison setting.

High-ranking cadres were imprisoned and interrogated in larger cells,

An empty interrogation room at Tuol Sleng prison with a metal bed frame, a simple table and chair, and a photograph of a lifeless body on the wall.

while the masses were confined to bricked-in cubbies the size of shower stalls, with ammunition boxes for toilets.

A poignant painting of a gaunt prisoner depicted in a cell, representing the suffering endured during the Khmer Rouge era, with a visitor observing the artwork in the foreground.

Of course, Vann was interrogated…

An artist's depiction of a prisoner sitting in a chair, tied up, with two Khmer Rouge soldiers interrogating him at a table in a stark room.

and tortured to extract a confession,

Artwork depicting scenes of torture at Tuol Sleng Prison during the Khmer Rouge regime, illustrating the brutality faced by detainees.

according to a strict code of conduct.

A poster detailing the rules of conduct and discipline for detainees, with numbered instructions emphasizing strict compliance and the severe consequences for disobedience.

Archives from S-21 reveal that initially, Vann was to be executed, but the commandant spared him in exchange for the portraits he later painted of their supreme leader, Pol Pot.

A black and white illustration depicting an artist sculpting a bust while painting a portrait of a man in a uniform, with additional sketches of other figures in the background.

Vann was among the handful of prisoners who narrowly escaped death by virtue of their special skills and usefulness to the regime.

An illustration depicting the brutal torture methods used by the Khmer Rouge, showing a victim being suspended and interrogated by armed guards.

Vann’s first-person account of his misfortune was interpreted years later after his release through a series of colorful graphic depictions–on permanent display throughout the museum–that ironically brings life to the drab surroundings of prison buildings.

Two students in school uniforms walk through a former detention cell area at the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, with brick walls and a checkered floor, reflecting the somber history of the site.

These vibrant illustrations vividly capture the stark contrast between the bleak memories of confinement and the essence of freedom, allowing us to connect emotionally with Vann’s experiences.

A painting depicting a scene of violence during the Khmer Rouge era, showing soldiers overpowering a person in a rural landscape.

The cracked walls reflect the forgotten whispers of hope and despair, transforming the narrative into an immersive journey that transcends time and pain.

A dramatic depiction of a torture scene during the Khmer Rouge era, showing soldiers inflicting violence on a restrained individual.

The art not only serves as a commentary on the injustices faced but also inspires conversations about redemption, resilience, and the profound impact of creativity in the face of adversity.

A depiction of a figure observing another person submerged in a water tank, evoking a sense of interrogation or torture associated with the Khmer Rouge regime.

Chum Mey is another survivor who’s grateful for his mechanical skills. By fixing the typewriters used to record the forced confessions of fellow prisoners, Chum Mey managed to escape a death sentence, but not the torture. He sits at the edge of the museum courtyard, eager to recount his story in horrific detail. “I come every day to tell the world the truth about the Tuol Sleng prison… so that none of these crimes are ever repeated anywhere in the world.”

An elderly man sitting in a wheelchair, performing a traditional gesture of respect, while another younger man sits nearby. A display board titled 'Survivor' detailing the testimony of Chum Mey stands beside them, featuring images and text about his experiences during the Khmer Rouge regime.

Our group was also moved by our off-site exchange with Norng Chan Phal, who delivered his oral history through an interpreter. He was 9-years old in 1978, when his world was turned upside down. His father was arrested and executed at Tuol Sleng. Months later, the Khmer Rouge returned for the rest of his family. He recalled his mother’s torture and disappearance, and how he and his brother hid under piles of dirty laundry to escape retreating guards after S-21 was liberated.

A man holding a photograph of two young boys, both appearing shirtless, against a backdrop of blue fabric.

Even now, the burden of remembering brings on sudden sadness.

A middle-aged man with closed eyes sits calmly, resting his hand against his face, expressing a moment of reflection or contemplation. He wears a light-colored shirt, and the background features a blue curtain.

All three survivors later testified against senior leadership before the UN-backed Khmer Rouge genocide tribunal, which led to their convictions.

Infographic detailing the Khmer Rouge tribunal, featuring the names and details of convicted individuals and a map highlighting execution sites and prison locations in Cambodia.

Tuol Sleng was liberated by the Vietnamese Army in January 1979, and reopened the following year as a museum.

A historical information board describing the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, detailing its significance, history, and the events surrounding the Khmer Rouge regime.

Cambodia’s willingness to confront its past is only one part of the healing process. Youk Chhang, director of the Documentation Center of Cambodia (DC-Cam) states, “Post-conflict nations must redefine themselves and actively commit to a future without violence, atrocity crimes and genocide.”

The S-21 Boneyard

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At first glance, Choeung EK is an inviting greenspace on the edge of Phnom Penh,

with flowering trees,

and a peaceful lotus pond stocked with ancient koi.

Located 12 km from City Center, it’s conveniently adjacent to AEON Mean Chey, the city’s trendiest and largest all-purpose shopping center and fashion mall targeting Cambodia’s rising middle class.

Although, from my perspective, the only fashion that’s display-worthy is a collection of fabric remnants protected in a glass box…

once worn by 20,000 prisoners whose remains continue to float to the surface during every rainy season.

On closer inspection, the heritage trees throughout the grounds were once used as tools of brutality by agents of Khmer Rouge: from towers of dissonance,

to hardwood battering pillars.

Over the years, visitors to Choeung EK Genocidal Center have rebranded this tree as an ad hoc totem to memorialize the fate of thousands of children whose skulls were bashed against it.

Nearby, a stunning Buddhist stupa rises from the epicenter of the killing field…

housing thousands of adult skulls recovered during a site excavation in the 1980’s.

Between 1995 and 2007, the Documentation Center of Cambodia undertook the most challenging and disheartening task of mapping and documenting Cambodia’s killing fields.  Through thousands of interviews and field investigations, DC-Cam identified 19,733 mass graves and 196 prisons that operated during the Democratic Kampuchea (DK) regime.

Choeung EK’s conversion from orchard to reeducation center…

served as a lethal gateway for every soul imprisoned at the notorious Tuol Sleng Detention Center.

All day long, trucks rolled into S-21, herding political enemies into primitive barracks,

where they ultimately met their untimely fate through horrific violence.

In 5 years, an estimated 2 million Cambodians (men, women, children, and infants) were murdered by Khmer Rouge,

accounting for 25% of the nation’s population.

Choeung EK reopened as a historical museum and learning center on January 7, 1989, with a mission to acknowledge the historical atrocities that occurred, and to remind us that violence against each other can have devastating consequences.

Its exhibits, memorials, and curated educational programs engage visitors in meaningful conversations about human rights and reconciliation.

Cambodians will soon commemorate their loss with a National Day of Remembrance. Every May 20th, students take part in an annual ritual–reenacting the crimes of Khmer Rouge guerillas–that still haunt Cambodian people deep to the bone.

On that day and every day, we pray for healing and understanding, and the realization that confronting past acts of inhumanity will inform and guide the well-being of future generations.

Tasting Tarantulas

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We were only 50 miles into a 200-mile road trip when our driver pulled up to a roadside shack on Natl Hwy 6 in Skón. It was our first potty break on the way to Siem Reap from Phnom Penh, but Seong, our guide had a different motive for stopping. We were standing on the edge of the jungle in Kampong Thom province to meet the “Spider Woman” of the town locals refer to as “Spiderville.”

A woman wearing a yellow hat and glasses is smiling, dressed in a red sweater with a purple-striped scarf. A toy spider is pinned to her chest.

She and her young daughter manage a thriving tourist trade of hunting and preparing Thai zebra leg tarantulas for snacking.

A young girl wearing a blue shirt with 'Cambodia' printed on it and a plaid skirt is giving a thumbs up while standing next to a tree.

Historically, eating bugs, or entomophagy is nothing new for Cambodians. The practice is embedded in Cambodian culture, as shamans believe in its healing powers for heart, lung and throat ailments, as well as its potent aphrodisiac properties.

All the same, I can’t imagine why anyone would ever consider eating a tarantula, but during the Khmer Rouge regime from 1975-1979, eating eight-legged creatures became the new normal, thanks to the great food scarcity. Estimates from The U.S. Holocaust Memorial Museum suggest between 500,000 and 1.5 million Cambodians perished from Khmer Rouge–induced famine, causing a desperate populace to hunt for anything that wriggled or crawled as dinner.

Decidedly, Cambodia’s appetite for tarantulas has evolved from the venomous (Pol) Pot stirrer on the countryside menu, to where it has become culinary currency. A skilled spider hunter/vendor can unearth up to 200 of these creatures (known locally as A-ping) in a couple of hours and fry them up for $1 each, reaping big profits.

All it takes is a small shovel, a stick, and locating their hidden, silk-laden lair–

A close-up of a burrow in the ground surrounded by leaves and debris, with spider silk visible at the entrance.

something Spider Woman knows all too well.

Once captured, A-ping was defanged to protect us from its venom, making it safer to handle without being bitten.

Close-up of a person's hands holding a tarantula and a pair of scissors. The tarantula is dark and hairy, while the scissors have a turquoise handle.
Close-up of a large tarantula displayed on a person's hand, with reddish fabric in the background.

Without hesitation, they were very curious to explore new territory as they “tiptoed” across my arm on their hairy legs, dragging their velvety abdomens. It was truly a weird sensation.

A man wearing sunglasses and a grey shirt holds two tarantulas on his arms, smiling at the camera. In the background, there are trees and a building under a clear blue sky.
A man in a yellow shirt smiles broadly as he holds a tarantula on his hand, surrounded by other tourists in the background.

As for tasting A-ping, the recipe is simple and straightforward. Saute chopped garlic and grated ginger in a wok of hot palm oil until golden. Add a dozen tarantulas and coat evenly with oil until their bellies explode into a yokey paste.

A wok filled with deep-fried tarantulas, sizzling in hot oil, showcasing the preparation of a local delicacy.

Season with salt and pepper to taste and blot the excess oil on a paper towel before enjoying.

A plate of deep-fried tarantulas, served on a paper towel with a floral patterned edge.

Not everyone in our group was hungry for arachnids, although there were a few intrepid souls. The faint-hearted mused that it would spoil their lunch, while Leah was sick at just the thought of putting it in her mouth. But before anyone of us would commit, we demanded a demonstration. Our guide was eager to oblige, touting it as a valuable source of protein, folic acid, zinc, and iron.

A man smiling and giving a thumbs-up while holding a fried tarantula in his mouth, showcasing local cuisine in Cambodia.

“What does it taste like?” we asked. But Seong was silent on the matter. He was too busy chewing. While I’ve “enjoyed” crickets in Sumatra, and mopane worms in Zimbabwe, I’ve never experienced tarantula on any menu …

A person reacting with surprise while holding food in their hand, with a chef in a white hat smiling beside them.

until now!

So, what does deep-fried tarantula taste like? It was crunchy on the outside, and gooey on the inside, not unlike soft-shelled crab–with a similar taste and texture. However, the large round, hairy abdomen–the source of all the spider organs–tastes a bit gamey.

While there currently seems to be an inexhaustible supply of tarantulas in Cambodia, systematic deforestation throughout the kingdom may be a nail in the coffin for this delicacy and could even lead to a decline in their numbers, say some experts. But for now, the demand for munching on A-ping continues to creep up.

A close-up image of a man holding a deep-fried tarantula to his mouth, with a hesitant expression, showcasing his facial hair and partially opened mouth.