Two of South America’s great urban centers–Santiago, Chile and Buenos Aires, Argentina served as designated transfers on our journey to the bottom of the world, but time would not allow Leah and me to explore our interim surroundings to the fullest. Nevertheless, we hit the ground running,

utilizing the long summer days to our advantage and netting a few memorable moments and postcard pearls to satisfy our wanderlust.

Santiago is a vibrant capital sandwiched between the Coastal Range and the Andean Mountains, and best experienced from the summit of San Cristobal Hill–

accessible by cable car from the east,

or by funicular from the west.
For many Catholics, the pilgrimage to the top of Cerro San Cristobal is incomplete without hiking to the Sanctuary of the Immaculate Conception,

where a statue of the Virgin Mary rises 14 meters from her pedestal.

The Catholic Archdiocese is based at the neoclassical Metropolitan Cathedral at the Plaza de Armas,

where it stands as the centerpiece of the square.

The opulence of the sky-blue frescos and the cathedral’s gilded columns are a testament to the hundreds of artisans who toiled for decades to evoke the aesthetics of Tuscany and Rome.

On the civics side of the peso chileno, there is also a wealth of Beaux-Arts architecture that dominates the cityscape, from the Supreme Court building…

to Constitution Square.

Leah and I initially arrived in Santiago, Chile, only to fly out the following day to the Antofagasta region, where the Atacama Desert figured large in our itinerary (see Atacama Desert). Then it was back to Santiago, for an overnight, before an early departure to Buenos Aires, where our time was sorely limited to an amazing rib-eye dinner in the midst of Monserrat,

followed by a necessary “walk-off-our-meal” stroll through the city’s oldest district, replete with sidewalk bistros,

political art,

and public buildings defended by commemorative art,

and protected by full-figured gargoyles.

The following afternoon, we arrived in Ushuaia, acclaimed as the southernmost city on the planet.

Although our ship Viking Octantis awaited us at the harbor (just kidding),

Leah and I still managed to appreciate the Patagonian panorama surrounding the waterfront,


the inland tributes and monuments,


and the resplendent gardens scattered throughout the town.

Ushuaia surprised me. I anticipated a sleepy town, but discovered a hive of trendy shops, boutique hotels, and pricey outfitters. The scenery was unparalleled, and the weather was ideal. It seemed the perfect segue to an exciting Viking expedition.
And so, the time had come to embark on our adventure to the White Continent by first surrendering to the dreaded Drake Passage…

