It was 5 p.m., and the last of us was being checked in at the Aula foyer on Deck 2. As I waited, it gave me an opportunity to photograph the creepy albatross dangling from the ceiling.

Leah and I were among the lucky dozen chosen for Octantis’s last outing—a Special Ops Boat (SOB) trip—prior to our return to Ushuaia.

Our guide was informed by the science support team that recent drone surveillance revealed significant wildlife activity near Jonassen Island. This discovery prompted our pilot to alter our planned route, with the understanding that Octantis would forgive our tardy return in the interest of scientific discovery.

We jetted into open water toward Jonassen Island for 15 minutes or so, until our pilot suddenly killed the throttle. Our guide had spotted a couple of humpbacks in the distance, worthy of a closer look.

Passengers were abuzz with excitement at the possibilities as we maneuvered into position. And then a voice rang out, “Did you see that at 3 o’clock?”

The pilot responded quickly, steering starboard toward the sighting. I spun to orient myself, when it became apparent that we were not alone; there was company on our portside,

and on our starboard side!

We were in the midst of a feeding frenzy.

In fact, we were surrounded by a pod of a dozen humpbacks…

swimming around us and under us!

I didn’t know which way to turn. Whales were breaching…

and diving all around us.

Penguins were unphased by the playful display.

They were content to share the water and krill, filling their bellies without concern,

while humpbacks continued their elaborate feast.

We idled in place for nearly an hour, witnessing the spectacle around us. But a radio transmission from Octantis woke us from our enchanted trance and indicated that we had overstayed our welcome.

We returned to Octantis for dinner plans of our own, and bragging rights to a whale of a tale that was the icing on the wake.