It was a dramatic crossing from Ushuaia to the Antarctic Peninsula, and the reward was visceral.

When seas had finally calmed, relieved passengers emerged from their cloistered cabins, looking refreshed and revitalized, with a “what’s-for-breakfast” look on their faces. There was a literal pep in their step as they attacked the buffet on Deck 6.

I attended the 10 A.M. daily briefing in the Aula, a two-tiered, smartly equipped, and fashionable auditorium,

while Leah live-streamed the event on the wall-mounted, flat screen TV in the privacy of our well-appointed Nordic hive on Deck 4.

At the briefing, our Program Director confirmed that our first destination would be Fournier Bay, a picturesque sanctuary located in the Palmer Archipelago, and situated on the northeast coast of Anvers Island, a mountainous coastal enclave just above the Antarctic Circle.

Our flexible activity assignments were previously distributed in anticipation of our arrival, although none of us would be scheduled for a landing, as deep water and rocky surroundings were among deciding factors.

However, it was a perfect opportunity to board a Zodiac for a closer inspection of the coastline. According to our team schedules, we gathered in the hangar, all of us outfitted and overheated in our complimentary expedition jackets, and waited patiently …

until the next Zodiac became available.

The water was calm as our pilot dodged floating chunks of ice,

and weaved through more formidable icebergs on our approach to the Anvers Island.

It was nearly impossible to contain our giddiness as we cruised closer to shore,

where we reached an outcropping of volcanic granite.

That’s where we spotted a solitary chinstrap penguin–identifiable by the telltale line that runs under his helmet–who was posing on a puddle of penguin poop for our benefit.

It was our first Antarctic wildlife encounter, but judging from the penguin’s apparent apathy, probably not his first photo shoot.

The excursion was brief and memorable, but easily topped the following day by an early morning sail through the Lemaire Channel, featuring breathtaking views of mirrored mountains standing against azure skies.

Stay tuned.